A Stihl running on the bottled gas (no ethanol) is pretty reliable. Maybe it’s me, but my Huskavarna, on the other hand, has been a huge PITA. So now I have two chainsaws.
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A Stihl running on the bottled gas (no ethanol) is pretty reliable. Maybe it’s me, but my Huskavarna, on the other hand, has been a huge PITA. So now I have two chainsaws.
BacktoBack
Doctor Of Cerumen
We are in the process of relocating to the greater Huntsville Alabama area. The home we have selected had the inspection yesterday. Nothing beyond a few minor issues. However, one thing came up I'm not sure about. Would appreciate any feedback. The house is brick. And apparently when it was built (late 90's) they did not put weep holes. I understand what they are and their purpose. Should I be worried about this? There doesn't appear to be any evidence of internal water damage whatsoever. We're told that the only remedy is drilling holes in the mortar. Should we just leave well enough alone and not create a problem where there may not be one?
Deacon923
Scooter Banks
I have the EGO blower and the weedeater. I was hesitant about the weedeater but it absolutely does everything my old gas-powered would do, plus it starts up every single time without a fight. I would not be at all surprised if the EGO engineers make a quality chainsaw.
ETA: have you had any problems with the batteries? I have had two go bad on me in 2-3 years. EGO replaced them both free of charge but is a bit concerning.
ImTheCaptain
I disagree with you
I haven't had any problems with the two I have now yet though the runtime seems kinda short on the 2.0 hr amp batteries . I'm hoping the 5.0 battery runtime is worth it. I probably didn't need the 16" bar version but the $299 pricetag for machine and 5.0 battery (and a second charger) seemed like a no-brainer, especially if I get more equipment.
Deaconblue
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If they aren't there, you're probably better off not making holes. Weep holes are only part of the whole wall ventilation and drainage construction. Do a search and read some of the home inspection guidance such as the one linked here.
My short summary: proper weep holes and flashing should have been installed during construction. If they weren't, drilling weep holes later is not a good idea.
https://homeinspectionschool.info/news-2/newsletters/weep-holes-deficient-or-abu
Truthfully it'll be dependent on how long the plumbing and electrical runs will be and if you are on a slab, crawl space, or basement. Basement would be the easiest and cheapest, a slab would be the most generally speaking.
Deaconblue
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This.
Also, if you have a gas dryer, the gas line will also need to be included with the added plumbing.
tiltdeac
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It would be in a first floor room that is directly above where the washer and dryer currently is in the basement, so I would think not too hard to flip the plumbing/gas.
Also, anyone have much experience with ductless AC? The house were are looking at was build in 1927, has steam heat and no ac. Sellers got a quote to install a Fujitsu ductless system with 1 outdoor unit and 3-5 indoor units with floor an ceiling registers.
Also, anyone have much experience with ductless AC? The house were are looking at was build in 1927, has steam heat and no ac. Sellers got a quote to install a Fujitsu ductless system with 1 outdoor unit and 3-5 indoor units with floor an ceiling registers.
lbE08
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Ours was done by TerraFirma before we moved in... it's effective, but they removed the under-floor batt insulation when they put it in, and I feel like our floors are really cold in the winter. So I guess ask them how they'll ensure the space is properly insulated and what options are if you feel like it's colder than when you started.
spiffylubes
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Anybody with any opinions, what would you do to make this sill into our master shower not look quite so weird/shoddy. The top is the same as our countertops (quartz), the tile going to floor under it is the same as our shower wall, but it just looks off. Maybe it's just that the cut is one really long piece and one short one? It also runs looks strange how it transitions into the wood trim. Maybe run the quartz down to the floor?
ImTheCaptain
I disagree with you
I'd waterfall the quartz.
spiffylubes
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So what would you do to avoid having a seam showing? If you have them meet at the corner, is it still possible to break that edge like we have it? And do you think the trim on the left/right would look fine when all is said and done?
Deaconblue
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That would look better.
The visual is at least partly from the short/long tile facing. That is lazy work. Many other arrangements would look better. Two same length. Short on each end...
Also the molding on each side being higher and projecting farther into the room contribute to the look.
The projecting lip of the granite also looks funny.
So I echo ITC's thought of waterfalling the granite. Make sure the vertical is under the horizontal. Also the face of the vertical should align with the front of the horizontal.
ImTheCaptain
I disagree with you
Seam where they meet? Remove it, miter the edges and reinstall would be optimal but even a single-length piece would look better than the offset tile like you have now.
The trim is tough. i don't know what the overall style is or what you/your partner like, so maybe that quarter round works for you (even if it's not my personal taste). It would almost be better if you could find shorter trim to match the height of the step or make the step protrude so you don't have that scrolled quarter round running vertically (at least not all the way to the floor. I agree it looks pretty sloppy right now.
The trim is tough. i don't know what the overall style is or what you/your partner like, so maybe that quarter round works for you (even if it's not my personal taste). It would almost be better if you could find shorter trim to match the height of the step or make the step protrude so you don't have that scrolled quarter round running vertically (at least not all the way to the floor. I agree it looks pretty sloppy right now.
spiffylubes
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What if everything red here was that same quartz? So it sticks out on the sides and we eliminate at least most of the vertical trim? I'm not sure what to do since it's not as tall as the trim, but it might work. We COULD pull the baseboard from the bathroom and put in a shorter one, but then it wouldn't match the rooms around it (master bedroom and closet). The quartz would have to protrude into the room more than it does now too, but I don't think that that's a big deal.
ImTheCaptain
I disagree with you
That's sort of what I was thinking, yes. I think that would define the space much better.
Mismatching the baseboard seems like a bad option, I agree, but if it's a smaller space and cut up by the vanity/toilet/the shower it might not be too noticeable.
Mismatching the baseboard seems like a bad option, I agree, but if it's a smaller space and cut up by the vanity/toilet/the shower it might not be too noticeable.
spiffylubes
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Would you have the trim come down vertically into the quartz like I still have it showing or somehow just...end? And eliminate all of the vertical trim? I can't think of a way that that would look right. Or maybe there's some kind of plinth block that would fit right here, but it wouldn't avoid the height mismatch.