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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

Me again with the old house. When we turn on the cold water for the tub in the guest bath, brown water comes out for about a second before turning clear. This only happens if the water has not been turned on for 8+ hours. The longer it has not been used, the dirtier the water. Always clears up after a second or two. All other faucets in the house run clear all the time. I've let the cold water run in the tub for a long time. I installed a whole house filter on the main line. Nothing seems to help. Any ideas?

Sounds possible you have some iron pipe (black iron, galvanized steel or something similar) in the cold water supply to that spigot. And it is rusting. From your description, it is very close to the faucet. If you are lucky, you can reach it from the access panel. Usually this is on the wall behind the faucets. Because this is only happening on the cold side, it is possible the equivalent pipe on the hot side was already replaced.
 
We have something similar in our home. When the dishwasher is on, there is one spigot in another part of the house where the water runs brown for a short time before clearing up. This only happens when the dishwasher is actively running. No clue what the cause or fix could be.

Sounds like water hammer from the dishwasher fill valve opening and closing. The dishwasher most likely has a magnetic solenoid operated valve. The close very, very quickly. The sudden halt to water flow can loosen sediment or corrosion in the pipes, even distant ones.

There are water hammer arrestors that can be installed to prevent the water hammer. There are some that can be installed right at the dishwasher if your connection allows. Otherwise the device would need to be installed on the pipe carrying hot water to the dishwasher.

Is the brown stuff only in the hot water or both or only cold?

Does this happen when you run the washing machine? Especially when you use hot or warm water for washing.

The brown stuff could be coming from the water heater. Have you drained the sediment from the bottom lately?

How old is the water heater? Older ones accumulate sediment. How old is the dip tube/anti-corrossion tube?
 
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Deaconblue is right on the money in this thread...

i don't know much about electricity, so this is a soft lob. i recently (in the fall) electrified my garage/barn but until recently i didn't notice that it is on a closed circuit, which means that i have to have the lights on in the garage/barn to garner electricity to the outside outlets.

there has to be an easy fix for this, i am just starting to look into this but any assistance is appreciated.
 
Sounds like something is bad in the new hood. If you properly reset the breaker (push to hard "off" before going back to "on") an it trips immediately, that indicates a short somewhere.

Possible cause is "infant mortality" in electronic controls for the hood fan/light.

Luckily it wasn't an issue with the hood. It was in the wall. There was a little bit of wire touching a metal bracket, so the electrician replaced the metal bracket with plastic and covered the exposed wire. Basically said that it was careless installation but that it happens a lot, and once he found the issue it took him all of 5 mins to fix. While he was here we also had to have him convert our existing 110v outlet to 220v and hard-wire our new range directly to the wall (because Euro shit has to be complicated). This was all outside of my expertise, but man electricians are expensive.
 
Deaconblue is right on the money in this thread...

i don't know much about electricity, so this is a soft lob. i recently (in the fall) electrified my garage/barn but until recently i didn't notice that it is on a closed circuit, which means that i have to have the lights on in the garage/barn to garner electricity to the outside outlets.

there has to be an easy fix for this, i am just starting to look into this but any assistance is appreciated.

In doing the wiring, you have the switch between the power to the barn and the outlets. Your current situation is power->switch->lights&outlets.(order unimportant here)

You need power->outlets->switch ->lights.
Or power->outlets & switch->lights.
The important thing is to make sure power reaches the outlets before going to the switch that you want to just control the lights. You can either wire things so everything is in a row in the order noted above or put things in a parallel configuration with a "Y" connection.

I will use the term "cable" to refer to the Romex, BX etc. that has black, white and bare copper/green ground wires inside. Wire will refer to the individual black, white and bare copper (ground) wires inside the cable.

My guess is that the cable bringing power to the barn goes into the box holding the switch and is connected to the switch. Wires go from the switch to lights/outlets (any order). You need to rewire so there is a continuous path of white, black and ground wires from the power to the outlets. Typically this is done by creating a Y configuration of the wires in the first junction box. Also make sure to remove the existing connection between the lights and the outlets as part of your rewiring.

Here are some possible ways to rewire. Which one you use should be based on the actual layout of cables in the barn.

1. Power cable goes into switch box. Two cable come out. One cable goes to the lights. The other goes to the outlets. Connections inside as follows: All three whites together. all three grounds together. Power cable black wire, outlet cable black and short black "pigtail" wire connected together. Other end of Pigtail connected to "power in" terminal on switch. Black wire in cable to lights connected to other terminal of switch.

2. Do the "Y" in another (new) junction box at a convenient location so you can comfortably reach it with the existing power cable. Here, it is simpler. Power cable in, cable to outlets and cable to switch out. Inside the junction box, connect three white wires together, three black wires together and three grounds together. Put a blank (no holes) cover plate on the box. Connect the cable to the outlets the way you have it, replacing the existing cable that connects the outlets to the light or switch. Connect the cable to the switch box and wire it to the switch like you currently have the switch wired from the existing power cable.
2A variant. Put an outlet in the new box. Just include pigtails in each of the white/black/ground connections, so you have four wires in each, and connect the pigtails to the outlet in the box.
2B Variant: Use one of the existing outlets for the connections. Connect as in 2A.

3. Connect the power cable to the "first" outlet boxes. Connect all the outlet boxes. Connect the last outlet box to the switch box and inside connect the new cable from the last outlet to the switch box the way you currently have the wires from the power cable connected to the switch and lights. "First" is simply the outlet that is connected to the power cable to the barn. "Last" refers to whichever outlet is the final one in the connections. Actual locations in the barn are unimportant. Make sure there are no direct connections between any of the outlets and the lights, other than the connection between the "last" outlet and the switch.

4. A bigger upgrade. If you ran cable with 12 or 14 gauge wire (normal for house wiring) cable from the house to the barn, don't do this. If you really want to upgrade, depending on the size of the wire in the cable you ran to the barn, install a small breaker box inside the barn and connect the switch/lights and outlets to separate breakers in the new breaker box. This would make it easier for you to add more outlets and or lights in the future. However, you need to have larger wire size in the cable to the barn (at least 10 or 8 gauge), and a breaker in your main box large enough to handle more power, sized based on the size of wire in the cable from the house to barn. Again, if you ran cable with 12 or 14 gauge wire from the house to the barn, don't do this.

Hope this helps.
 
Luckily it wasn't an issue with the hood. It was in the wall. There was a little bit of wire touching a metal bracket, so the electrician replaced the metal bracket with plastic and covered the exposed wire. Basically said that it was careless installation but that it happens a lot, and once he found the issue it took him all of 5 mins to fix. While he was here we also had to have him convert our existing 110v outlet to 220v and hard-wire our new range directly to the wall (because Euro shit has to be complicated). This was all outside of my expertise, but man electricians are expensive.

Yeah, that would have been my other guess, but I was like "installers can't be that bad." Wrong! At least you got the two for one on the electrician base charge.
 
Sounds possible you have some iron pipe (black iron, galvanized steel or something similar) in the cold water supply to that spigot. And it is rusting. From your description, it is very close to the faucet. If you are lucky, you can reach it from the access panel. Usually this is on the wall behind the faucets. Because this is only happening on the cold side, it is possible the equivalent pipe on the hot side was already replaced.

The pipe entering the house is PVC. Then it's copper over most of the house. Interestingly, it's pex from line under the house up to the tub. The only sources of rust that I could see were the water pressure valve, a plug at the end of an unused T joint, and a water pressure gauge. All of these have rusty exteriors. Would one of these be the cause?
 
The pipe entering the house is PVC. Then it's copper over most of the house. Interestingly, it's pex from line under the house up to the tub. The only sources of rust that I could see were the water pressure valve, a plug at the end of an unused T joint, and a water pressure gauge. All of these have rusty exteriors. Would one of these be the cause?

From your original description, it most likely something very close to the spigot, and relatively small. Unless one of these is very close to the faucet where you get the crud, not likely candidates. How far away is the T joint plug?

You said it appears immediately. That means it is very close to the spigot. Also, it clears up quickly. That means it isn't coming from a large generator. And it takes 8 plus hours of non-use of the spigot to get a visible brown. This is all leading me to think that the crud is being created in the inside of spigot body itself. Sometimes these descriptions need to marinate in my brain a bit for better results. How old is the spigot? Old spigots eventually deteriorate and corrode.

To check, you would need to remove the spigot stem (the inside part of the spigot) and see if it is corroding. Be prepared to replace it. New stems are usually less than $15 unless you have a very unusual one. There are many variations of stems, length, diameter and thread. Take your old one to a store that sells such stuff (big box or plumbing supply store) and match it up.

Removal of the stem usually just means removing some retaining nuts with a wrench and unscrewing the stem like you are turning on the water. Only it should keep unscrewing until it comes out. I'm not going to try to give more specifics here. There are too many brands and models. There are You-tube videos for doing this. Two clues on starting: handles have a cap in the middle that can be (carefully) pried off to reveal a screw that allows the handle to be removed so the shroud over the nuts will slip off. Other common situation is a small usually well hidden set screw (Allen screw, frequently *) holding the handle onto the top of the stem.

Tip: Once you have all the nuts holding the stem in place, the handle can be just set back on top of the stem and used to turn it until it comes out.

Put waterproof plumbers grease on the stem before you reinstall. Put it on the threads of the stem and anywhere else things might rub. Err on the side of "more" with this stuff, except on your fingers. It is designed not to wash off easily.

You should replace the faucet washer on the end of the stem while you have it out. The washers wear out. The cost of a new one is pennies. Make sure you get the right size. Faucet washers have strange sizing. Like 0, 00, 1/4R etc. The screw holding the faucet washer to the bottom of the stem could be corroding. If so, new screw there (brass!)

Put some towels or large rags over the bathtub drain area underneath you spigot before starting on any disassembly. Tell me later how many parts you drop on the towel and not down the drain. Also how many dropped wrenches landed softly on the towels and didn't chip the tub.

Don't forget to turn off the water! You probably will have to turn off all the water in the house. Bathtubs rarely have cutoff valves. Drain enough of the system so you don't have water running out of the spigot you are working on.

*Somewhere up above is a discussion of Allen wrenches and screws. It may have entertainment value.

The good news about the foregoing is that even if this is does not solve your problem, removing the stem, greasing it and replacing the faucet washer will make things work better.
The bad news is I'm about out of ideas. You may need to call a plumber. An experienced set of eyes may see something I'm not able to conjure up in my mind.
 
From your original description, it most likely something very close to the spigot, and relatively small. Unless one of these is very close to the faucet where you get the crud, not likely candidates. How far away is the T joint plug?

You said it appears immediately. That means it is very close to the spigot. Also, it clears up quickly. That means it isn't coming from a large generator. And it takes 8 plus hours of non-use of the spigot to get a visible brown. This is all leading me to think that the crud is being created in the inside of spigot body itself. Sometimes these descriptions need to marinate in my brain a bit for better results. How old is the spigot? Old spigots eventually deteriorate and corrode.

To check, you would need to remove the spigot stem (the inside part of the spigot) and see if it is corroding. Be prepared to replace it. New stems are usually less than $15 unless you have a very unusual one. There are many variations of stems, length, diameter and thread. Take your old one to a store that sells such stuff (big box or plumbing supply store) and match it up.

Removal of the stem usually just means removing some retaining nuts with a wrench and unscrewing the stem like you are turning on the water. Only it should keep unscrewing until it comes out. I'm not going to try to give more specifics here. There are too many brands and models. There are You-tube videos for doing this. Two clues on starting: handles have a cap in the middle that can be (carefully) pried off to reveal a screw that allows the handle to be removed so the shroud over the nuts will slip off. Other common situation is a small usually well hidden set screw (Allen screw, frequently *) holding the handle onto the top of the stem.

Tip: Once you have all the nuts holding the stem in place, the handle can be just set back on top of the stem and used to turn it until it comes out.

Put waterproof plumbers grease on the stem before you reinstall. Put it on the threads of the stem and anywhere else things might rub. Err on the side of "more" with this stuff, except on your fingers. It is designed not to wash off easily.

You should replace the faucet washer on the end of the stem while you have it out. The washers wear out. The cost of a new one is pennies. Make sure you get the right size. Faucet washers have strange sizing. Like 0, 00, 1/4R etc. The screw holding the faucet washer to the bottom of the stem could be corroding. If so, new screw there (brass!)

Put some towels or large rags over the bathtub drain area underneath you spigot before starting on any disassembly. Tell me later how many parts you drop on the towel and not down the drain. Also how many dropped wrenches landed softly on the towels and didn't chip the tub.

Don't forget to turn off the water! You probably will have to turn off all the water in the house. Bathtubs rarely have cutoff valves. Drain enough of the system so you don't have water running out of the spigot you are working on.

*Somewhere up above is a discussion of Allen wrenches and screws. It may have entertainment value.

The good news about the foregoing is that even if this is does not solve your problem, removing the stem, greasing it and replacing the faucet washer will make things work better.
The bad news is I'm about out of ideas. You may need to call a plumber. An experienced set of eyes may see something I'm not able to conjure up in my mind.

Thank you so much! I'll examine the actual faucet.
 
I just mounted a new tv above the hearth on my fireplace. Drilling through the brick was a bitch even with the masonry bit, but it wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be.
 
I just mounted a new tv above the hearth on my fireplace. Drilling through the brick was a bitch even with the masonry bit, but it wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be.

Drilling in masonry takes a good, sharp masonry bit and persistence. It's a slow go.
 
I just mounted a new tv above the hearth on my fireplace. Drilling through the brick was a bitch even with the masonry bit, but it wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be.

Do you have a hammer drill? That will speed it up a lot.
 
Had the concrete floor in my bonus room stained and polished this week and I'm very happy with how it turned out. Did a 50% diluted gray stain with black silica filler in the join to provide some contrast. Looking forward to getting my bourbon/vinyl lounge set up back there!
 
Had the concrete floor in my bonus room stained and polished this week and I'm very happy with how it turned out. Did a 50% diluted gray stain with black silica filler in the join to provide some contrast. Looking forward to getting my bourbon/vinyl lounge set up back there!

Sounds killer!
 
Me again with the old house. When we turn on the cold water for the tub in the guest bath, brown water comes out for about a second before turning clear. This only happens if the water has not been turned on for 8+ hours. The longer it has not been used, the dirtier the water. Always clears up after a second or two. All other faucets in the house run clear all the time. I've let the cold water run in the tub for a long time. I installed a whole house filter on the main line. Nothing seems to help. Any ideas?

It turns out that the short pipe that the tub spout screws onto was iron. I replaced it with brass and no more dirty tub water. It was an easy fix.
 
Had the concrete floor in my bonus room stained and polished this week and I'm very happy with how it turned out. Did a 50% diluted gray stain with black silica filler in the join to provide some contrast. Looking forward to getting my bourbon/vinyl lounge set up back there!

hey we did that, too! it was just basically subfloor and we took a shot to see how it would work out; ended up very cool because the aggregate started popping through in a few spots
 
Kinda basic question here. Not the best DIYer here and I can't get a decent consensus from googling. I've got a ~1/2" hole in drywall from some mishaps from a stripped screw, then a pulled wall anchor, then a hole too big to successfully hold a 1/2" drywall anchor that then bored it out. What could I do to repair the hole and have it be secure enough to hang a coat hook on? I know it likely won't take much, but it also shouldn't just be spackle. Is there some filler I could squish in there that would be good enough? Toothpicks + glue/woodglue? A press fit oversized dowel pushed all the way through to also butt up against the far wall? Obviously this will be covered completely by what's installed over it so looks aren't that important. I'd really prefer not to patch a big spot of drywall.
 
Kinda basic question here. Not the best DIYer here and I can't get a decent consensus from googling. I've got a ~1/2" hole in drywall from some mishaps from a stripped screw, then a pulled wall anchor, then a hole too big to successfully hold a 1/2" drywall anchor that then bored it out. What could I do to repair the hole and have it be secure enough to hang a coat hook on? I know it likely won't take much, but it also shouldn't just be spackle. Is there some filler I could squish in there that would be good enough? Toothpicks + glue/woodglue? A press fit oversized dowel pushed all the way through to also butt up against the far wall? Obviously this will be covered completely by what's installed over it so looks aren't that important. I'd really prefer not to patch a big spot of drywall.


One part is easy. That is repairing the wall. The other part is harder, having the repaired area strong enough to support a coat hook. Because a coat hook holds a coat, which weighs much more than the hook. And is subject to being pulled as someone puts a coat on it. Particularly if that someone is a kid. Spackle just won't do the job for holding coathook, coat and part of a kid's weight.

Here is my suggestion.

Materials:
piece of wood about 3-1/4 x 3/4 x 1/2
string - long enough to reach from the hole to the floor plus about 2 feet. strong enough so you can't break it with your hands easily. You will get almost all of this back when finished.
drywall screws
spackle

Get a piece of wood that is about the size of your hole, and about 3-1/4 inches long. The 3-1/4 dimension is based on a guess that you have standard "2x4" wall studs that are actually 3-1/2 inches. The piece of wood needs to go all the way into the hollow space in the wall. If your wall is different, you will need to adjust accordingly. If you are really lucky, and have more space, use a longer piece of wood. It needs to have at least one flat side that is 3-1/4 by ( size greater than the smaller dimension of the hole). This side will be the side you see in the hole once it is in place.

Start by cleaning up any loose and broken drywall around the opening. You may need to slightly enlarge the hole and/or square off the corners so the piece of wood will fit through. Use a box cutter or similar sharp knife or drywall saw to do this.

Next, drill a hole about 2 inches from one end of the piece of wood going all the way through the flat side noted above. The hole needs to be big enough so you can put the string through it, loop it around and tie the short end to the long end on the side noted above. This way the piece of wood doesn't drop into the wall and get lost.

Tie the other end of the string to something too big to go through the hole. Place your foot on the string on the floor to control how much string goes out. Then push the piece of wood through the wall. You want just enough slack in the string so the wood goes completely in, but doesn't drop very far.

Next, use the string to pull the piece of wood back against the inside of the wall with the hole, position the piece of wood with the long dimension vertical, or close to it. The knot should be visible at the top of the hole. A second person may be useful. One to hold the wood snug (but not too tight) against the inside of the drywall, the other to move it until it is aligned. A couple of sharp objects, like large finishing nails (16d size) are useful in moving the wood around inside the wall.

Once the wood is where you want it, drill into the drywall about 1 inch above and below your hole into the wood inside the wall and put in drywall screws. Through the drywall, into the wood inside the wall. Use the proper size bit for the pilot holes, otherwise you have a high risk of splitting the wood inside because it is small. Make sure the screws pull the wood snug against the inside of the drywall. They will want to push it away. A second person keeping significant tension on the string will help in this regard.

On the outside, the screws should "dimple" just a little bit. That is, if you put the edge of a 3x5 card or similar straight edge over the screw head, there should be a little bit of space. But not much.

Once the wood piece is firmly in place, cut the string where it attaches to the wood and remove. Don't worry if you leave some. Just remove so it doesn't stick out of the hole.

Spackle. Probably need to do in at least two applications. Also spackle the screw heads. Sand/paint/finish.

When installing the coat hook, use wood screws and drill through the drywall into the piece of wood inside the wall. Then screw in the coat hook. If it would work for you, I would recommend either moving the coat hook to the nearest wall stud or using a piece of 1x3 long enough to span two wall studs, screw that into the studs with 2-1/2 or 3 inch wood screws and attach the coat hooks to that.

Problems like you are experiencing are why people use the multi-coat hooks on a board rack instead of single coat hooks into the drywall.

Good luck. Fell free to PM if you want more details.
 
Thanks for the feedback! As that sounded like more work than I felt like doing, I ended up finding these at Lowe's.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/TOGGLER-10-Pack-Assorted-Length-x-3-16-in-Dia-Toggle-Bolt-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/3183815

The only toggle bolt I could find that calls for 1/2" hole, and it has a built in plug to stabilize it in the hole. It ended up working really well because the bolt was just barely big enough for the key hole on the back of my hanger, so I pressed it onto the bolt then used the hanger itself like a screwdriver to drag the bolt and tighten it into place. It's actually more stable and less toggle-y than my other hangers (yeah, since keyhole hangers suck really bad, especially since you can't tighten the screw in the usual way after installing, but I'll blame my wife for the choice). I kind of want to just do this with the other 5 hangers to be honest, I'm surprised at how well it worked.
 
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