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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

Consider not installing padding. HTTD that is your paint, they’ll need to learn to pay the price for coming into your paint.
 
I wouldn’t put a hoop there. There won’t be any room to shoot layups. You’ll be running into that wall constantly.
 
Has anyone either screened in a deck or turned it into a 3 season room? We have a back deck we would like to enclose but was looking for advice...
 
Has anyone either screened in a deck or turned it into a 3 season room? We have a back deck we would like to enclose but was looking for advice...

One thing to think about is how you will keep unwanted creepy crawlies from entering from between the deck boards. What you need to do will be somewhat dependent on your choice of end result:

Do you build a screened deck or a three season room? Those are two different levels of project effort and cost.
 
One thing to think about is how you will keep unwanted creepy crawlies from entering from between the deck boards. What you need to do will be somewhat dependent on your choice of end result:

Do you build a screened deck or a three season room? Those are two different levels of project effort and cost.

The cost difference would be significant. Its chilly here in western nc and we dont use it a ton because of the mosquitos. However, mesh screens just always seem to rip and my kids would probably just love poking holes in them. Woudl a screen in deck be doable DIY?
 
The cost difference would be significant. Its chilly here in western nc and we dont use it a ton because of the mosquitos. However, mesh screens just always seem to rip and my kids would probably just love poking holes in them. Woudl a screen in deck be doable DIY?

Ease of screening in the deck as DIY depends on your carpentry skills. The harder part is building the framing to hold the screen.

What material are the "mesh screens" that rip made from?

I'm not sure how you would screen in a deck without using mesh of some material. Aluminum and fiberglass are common screen materials.
 
Ease of screening in the deck as DIY depends on your carpentry skills. The harder part is building the framing to hold the screen.

What material are the "mesh screens" that rip made from?

I'm not sure how you would screen in a deck without using mesh of some material. Aluminum and fiberglass are common screen materials.

We rent a house at the beach and the screen seems to come loose each year. It looks cheaply held together (think mesh fabric that is just stapled in place)... that was what popped into my mind with just a screen
 
We rent a house at the beach and the screen seems to come loose each year. It looks cheaply held together (think mesh fabric that is just stapled in place)... that was what popped into my mind with just a screen

Just like everything else, you get what you pay for. You can get crappy screens or high quality screens. Plus, salt air at the beach eats away at everything. Houses there need way more regular maintenance than anywhere else.

I’ve gotten a couple quotes on screening in our back deck. It’s a pretty hefty price, because it’s uncovered. So we would need a roof built then the framing and then the screening. If you could get someone to build the roof and do the framing, you could probably DIY the screening
 
We rent a house at the beach and the screen seems to come loose each year. It looks cheaply held together (think mesh fabric that is just stapled in place)... that was what popped into my mind with just a screen

At the very least, I would use thin wood strips (lath) to hold the screen edges in place. Spreads the load so tear doesn't happen as easily.
 
Just like everything else, you get what you pay for. You can get crappy screens or high quality screens. Plus, salt air at the beach eats away at everything. Houses there need way more regular maintenance than anywhere else.

I’ve gotten a couple quotes on screening in our back deck. It’s a pretty hefty price, because it’s uncovered. So we would need a roof built then the framing and then the screening. If you could get someone to build the roof and do the framing, you could probably DIY the screening

After you pay to have that much done, the actual screen installation is a small increment.
 
okay, new direction on the shelves: got some galvanized steel pipes for the vertical posts so I can attach them at the ceiling using flanges -- good looking out on that, dudes

my plan was to drill and put in shelf tabs for the shelf support, but that's gonna be a real pain in the ass to go through the galvanized steel and makes for a lot room for imprecision for level shelves

any thoughts on something that would be a non-drill solution for shelf supports?
 
I am trying to hang a shower curtain ring above our clawfoot tub, but the ceiling angles down toward the side of the tub where the faucet is. Is there any reason I couldn't get a standard ceiling ring (like this one: https://www.signaturehardware.com/oval-shower-curtain-ring-48-x-30.html), cut down one of the supports, and attach it to a swivel flange (like this one https://www.signaturehardware.com/s...is mounted to the angled part of the ceiling? If a bad idea, any other suggestions?

Sounds like a good plan to me. Measure twice, cut once when you shorten the support. Measuring the amount to cut will be somewhat tricky, to fit to the angle of the ceiling and the swivel support. Also, make sure you get the attachments to the ceiling solid. You don't want that coming down in mid shower.

I am going to assume that the places the flanges need to go are not aligned with the ceiling joists. If they are, be glad and ignore all after this.

You might think about putting some 1x4 or 1x6 boards on the ceiling to span your ceiling joists and attach the flanges to them. That way you have pretty solid attachment of the flanges to the ceiling. The one that I would most worry about is the one supporting the end farthest from the wall attachment. Make sure you span at least two ceiling joists.and attach to all the joists you span. You can put some fancy molding around the boards so they don't look like they were just stuck up there. If you can find molding with two long sides finished, you could use that. It is hard to find. It can be custom made.
 
What’s the best way to cut out (remove) a section of crown molding?

I would use an oscillating multitool with a fine tooth saw blade.

See number 5 in the Rockwell linked site.

http://blog.rockwelltools.com/10-things-can-multi-tool/

Because I can't edit my earlier, here are some additional thoughts.

If you are planning to remove a section of the crown molding and will leave it gone, then the above is the way to go.

If you are removing some of the molding and planning to replace it (repair underneath or whatever), consider removing the whole piece of molding from existing joint to joint. This may well be corner to corner. It is difficult to remove a section and put it back and have it not look like something was cut and repaired.
 
okay, new direction on the shelves: got some galvanized steel pipes for the vertical posts so I can attach them at the ceiling using flanges -- good looking out on that, dudes

my plan was to drill and put in shelf tabs for the shelf support, but that's gonna be a real pain in the ass to go through the galvanized steel and makes for a lot room for imprecision for level shelves

any thoughts on something that would be a non-drill solution for shelf supports?

The first thought would look very industrial: use pipe tees and short pieces of pipe horizontal between the vertical pipes to hold the shelves at that end. Thus, your vertical pipes will become a stack of short pipes screwed together with pipe tees.

You can get the brackets which hold the shelf tabs and screw or bolt them to the pipes. Fewer holes and easier drilling.

Use some "U-shaped" pipe hanger clamps to attach vertical boards to the pipes and attach the shelves to those boards the way you proposed to do before.

Now that you are willing to go floor to ceiling, I would do the whole thing in wood, just make sure enough of your verticals are attached to the ceiling or to a board along the ceiling. IMHO, adding pipes at the end of a wood bookcase/room divider will look odd. It will change feel toward heavier industrial.
 
i'm not too worried about the industrial look as I got some spray paint to do some colorful stuff with it


I'm looking for something that can slide over the pipe and then tighten with a screwdriver or something
 
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