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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

Our home renovation is like 98% done, but our contractor just can't finish things off. It's also gotten to an awkward point where he's gone significantly over budget in some areas (due to horrible project management, not due to issues that arose or our expensive taste). At this point he's trying to short us of out of about $5,000 worth of work/materials.

He's breached his own contract throughout by not providing invoices or requesting/acquiring written approval from us to go over budget (significantly). Today is the first day I've brought the contract issues up, as nicely as possible, but if he continues down this path, I'm sure I could threaten to get an attorney friend involved, no?
 
I have not.

If you're getting windows replaced/new windows - do you call a window-contractor or buy from window manufacturers and have them install?

I thought the former, but GF's mother mentioned the latter. Is that a real thing, and is there a preference?
 
anybody ever create their own light fixture?

Yes.

Some caveats:

Make sure you use UL approved sockets for the bulbs and heavy enough (16 gauge or thicker) wire for the connections. Also keep flammable stuff far enough away from heat generating parts.

Lamp kits used to be all the rage back in the day. Convert a wine bottle or other decorative items into lamps.

Ever seen antler chandeliers?

Probably a good idea to get a box connector bracket if you are creating a ceiling light. Make sure that you have sufficient support for whatever you build.

Share some thought about what you want to create and I'll try to be more specific.
 
I have not.

If you're getting windows replaced/new windows - do you call a window-contractor or buy from window manufacturers and have them install?

I thought the former, but GF's mother mentioned the latter. Is that a real thing, and is there a preference?

Window replacement can be a real motherfucker. Go with whatever option gives you the most confidence in a warranty for parts AND labor. It's highly likely that the sub will have to come back to fix a thing or two, go with the option that's going to make that happen easily.
 
Anyone know about oil furnace fuel lines?

Our set up is tank in basement on same level as furnace. Single line feeds from tank bottom, runs then up overhead then down to a filter near the furnace intake.

A couple of times the line has had to be bled due to air and maybe once allegedly had to be blown out at the tank to clear from debris (?).

Anyhow, it’s been fine for a few years until recently needing to be bled due to air...reprimed...?

The technician suggested maybe rerouting the feed line through the top of the tank, keeping it off the bottom but losing my fuel guage which presently sits in the only available hole in the tank top. He also suggested considering running a second fuel-return line back to the tank as a way to reduce air and priming problems, if I correctly understood him.


My attempt to research via the Internet is suggesting to me what I might really want is an in-line de-aerator like a TigerLoop. This seems like it could be a good idea and eliminate the need to run a second line all the way back to the tank.


Any of y’all know anything about this stuff?
 
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Yes.

Some caveats:

Make sure you use UL approved sockets for the bulbs and heavy enough (16 gauge or thicker) wire for the connections. Also keep flammable stuff far enough away from heat generating parts.

Lamp kits used to be all the rage back in the day. Convert a wine bottle or other decorative items into lamps.

Ever seen antler chandeliers?

Probably a good idea to get a box connector bracket if you are creating a ceiling light. Make sure that you have sufficient support for whatever you build.

Share some thought about what you want to create and I'll try to be more specific.

I see quite a few pendant domes for a dining room table that I like, but they're either not as large as I'd like or they're very expensive, not the color I want, etc.

doesn't seem like it's be too hard to make, but not sure what material I want to use

seems like you can pick up a pendant light kit for $25 bucks and then I'd just have to make the dome
 
I see quite a few pendant domes for a dining room table that I like, but they're either not as large as I'd like or they're very expensive, not the color I want, etc.

doesn't seem like it's be too hard to make, but not sure what material I want to use

seems like you can pick up a pendant light kit for $25 bucks and then I'd just have to make the dome

Perfectly round can be hard to do.
 
Window replacement can be a real motherfucker. Go with whatever option gives you the most confidence in a warranty for parts AND labor. It's highly likely that the sub will have to come back to fix a thing or two, go with the option that's going to make that happen easily.

I'll second this. Windows are hard to do correctly. They are rarely in easy to reach places. They have to be straight, plumb and level in all three directions. If they aren't, they won't look right and may not work correctly.
 
To start I have a house with extended eaves so there are no gutters. However my roof extends out over me back deck so when it rains all the water falls directly on the deck and pools there. In time it will surely rot the deck no matter how many times it is sealed. I have looked at rain diverters which would move the water off to the sides as well as adding a gutter to the back to help ease this problem.

Is one better than the other or is there another solution?
 
To start I have a house with extended eaves so there are no gutters. However my roof extends out over me back deck so when it rains all the water falls directly on the deck and pools there. In time it will surely rot the deck no matter how many times it is sealed. I have looked at rain diverters which would move the water off to the sides as well as adding a gutter to the back to help ease this problem.

Is one better than the other or is there another solution?

We had the same situation and decided to add gutters. On one side of the deck there is a pergola that makes it impossible to add gutters on that side so we went with a deflector on that stretch. When it rains water gets under the deflector and drips on the deck, whereas the side with the gutters is relatively drip free.
 
the only thing that makes a dad harder than having his lawnmower blades sharpened is saying the word "pergola"
 
Or perhaps doing their own lawnmower blade sharpening.
 
To start I have a house with extended eaves so there are no gutters. However my roof extends out over me back deck so when it rains all the water falls directly on the deck and pools there. In time it will surely rot the deck no matter how many times it is sealed. I have looked at rain diverters which would move the water off to the sides as well as adding a gutter to the back to help ease this problem.

Is one better than the other or is there another solution?

I usually consider diverters as solutions usable for short distances, like over doorways or steps. With long diverter runs you have to deal with pretty large streams of water dropping uncontrolled onto the ground. The streams of water coming from the ends of a long diverter during a thunderstorm downpour can be impressive.

Gutters and downspouts allow better control of where the water goes. I recommend the larger gutters (5 inch) and larger downspouts (4 x 5) over the smaller ones.
 
Pergola? Nah. I just paid the palapa contractor. The palapa piper, so to speak. The dream is a reality. I'll no longer be exposed to the elements.
 
Anyone know about oil furnace fuel lines?

Our set up is tank in basement on same level as furnace. Single line feeds from tank bottom, runs then up overhead then down to a filter near the furnace intake.

A couple of times the line has had to be bled due to air and maybe once allegedly had to be blown out at the tank to clear from debris (?).

Anyhow, it’s been fine for a few years until recently needing to be bled due to air...reprimed...?

The technician suggested maybe rerouting the feed line through the top of the tank, keeping it off the bottom but losing my fuel guage which presently sits in the only available hole in the tank top. He also suggested considering running a second fuel-return line back to the tank as a way to reduce air and priming problems, if I correctly understood him.


My attempt to research via the Internet is suggesting to me what I might really want is an in-line de-aerator like a TigerLoop. This seems like it could be a good idea and eliminate the need to run a second line all the way back to the tank.


Any of y’all know anything about this stuff?


I'm not an expert in oil burners. However, I'll throw in my 2 cents.

Your setup is not ideal. Better setup is having the oil line exit the tank, go down and then up to the pump and burner. That way air/ga/vapor would either go back up into the tank or go up into the pump where it would be a momentary "burp" and the pump would continue to get liquid. I will assume a change to this configuration is not possible.

I think you are on the right track with a de-aerator. The physics of the oil tank, supply line and pump locations in your set up leave the system vulnerable to air/gas/vapor build up in the supply line where it is above the level of oil in the tank and burner feed pump. The pump is near the burner, pulling oil from the tank. Hence, when enough air/gas/vapor builds up in the supply line, it will accumulate in the high part of the line, breaking the continuity of oil within the line and the pump will lose prime. At that point it will quit. Putting a de-aerator in the high part of the supply line should cure that problem. The Tiger Loop or similar device should do that.

It doesn't seem to me that changing the tank outlet from bottom to top accomplishes anything useful. In order to get oil out when the tank was getting empty there would need to be an internal tube that reached to near the bottom connected to the supply line. The inlet to the supply line would still be approximately where it is now, and the oil would still need to be pulled by the pump to flow all the way to the high point in the line before gravity would allow it to flow to the pump.

I also don't get the usefulness adding a return line, unless there isn't one (can't imagine it works at all without one) or if there is reason to believe that the existing one has some issues that make it effectively too small. Kinked or flattened are two such reasons. Only other reason that might warrant an added return line is if the burner and pump were changed since the original line was installed and the new pump needs the larger return capacity.

Good luck. Hope the foregoing is useful
 
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