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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

We have a light out in our garage. Before we have somebody come out and just fix it, is there any sort of updated technology we should be exploring to replace a standard fluorescent set up?

Current fixture is probably 20 years old.

LED could be an option depending on the fixture.

After 20 years the fixture itself may be bad. The ballast/starter is probably done. As noted by Left Coast, LED is the way to to go.

I would replace what you have with a new LED fixture rated for approximately the same light output (lumens) as your existing fluorescent lighting. Adjust up if your garage is dark. And replace your switch with a dimmer. More details than you probably want follow.

Two new terms in buying LED lights.
1. Color temperature. This is a number between 2000 and 10,000 followed by letter K. It is a way of expressing whether a white LED looks slightly red or yellow or blue. Technical explanation at the following link:

https://www.ledlightexpert.com/understanding_led_light_color_temperatures_ep_79

Go to someplace that has LED fixtures for sale and look at several different color temperatures and find what you like. Most people like something between 3000K ("warmer" look) and 7000K ("cooler" look). There isn't a right answer here. It is what your eyes like.

2. Light output. This is measured in lumens. This is now the way to measure how bright the light is. How many lumens you need wil be influenced by how high is the garage ceiling, how bright you want the light for getting people/stuff out of vehicles and whether or not you are lighting other activities, like a garage work area.

Old incandescent bulbs were only rated by the amount of electricity they used, measured in watts. Every manufacturer's bulb was about the same in efficiency of converting electricity into light. With all the newer technologies, this is no longer true. The different technologies (e.g. incandescent, fluorescent, LED) are a lot different in conversion efficiency.

A garage probably needs a few thousand lumens, depending on size of said garage. About 2000 lumens from LED fixture per car space is a good brightness for many people.

A note on lumen measurements between LED and fluorescent tubes. Light output is measured 360 degrees around the bulb ot tube. Fluorescent tubes emit equally in all directions. LED's emit in one direction. So LED's will give more light in the direction they point than the same lumens from a fluorescent tube.

LED's (like all lights) produce less as they age. Wasn't a big deal when bulbed were changed frequently. LED's can last 20 years. One solution is to get brighter LED's and install a dimmer switch in place of the on/off switch. Make sure the dimmer is rated for use with LED lighting. Also, make sure the LED fixture you get us "dimmable." I prefer the dimmer switches that are mostly switch with a tiny dimmer slide on the side or bottom. There are other options that have you go through the dimming range from 0 on up each time you turn it on. Again this is personal preference.
 
For a standalone built in grill island (has a 30 inch grill and likely a 24 inch built in fridge, no sink), how much counter space on either side of the grill would you recommend? Trying to keep it relatively compact, as our space isn't huge.
 
For a standalone built in grill island (has a 30 inch grill and likely a 24 inch built in fridge, no sink), how much counter space on either side of the grill would you recommend? Trying to keep it relatively compact, as our space isn't huge.

Fridge beside the grill? That gives you around 24 inches of counter space on top of it. Can you balance with that much space on the other side?

If fridge under, how far can you reach to each side? That's what I think of as first level most useful counter top space. How does that much counter space work with your overall space constraints?
 
Was thinking fridge beside grill. Was originally thinking an island in the 6-8 foot range, all of which could work in my space, but small is probably better. So maybe something like a 6.5 foot island, maybe offset the grill a bit so there is 30 inches of counter on one side (with the fridge under) and then 18 inches on the other which should still be enough space for practical use.
 
Was thinking fridge beside grill. Was originally thinking an island in the 6-8 foot range, all of which could work in my space, but small is probably better. So maybe something like a 6.5 foot island, maybe offset the grill a bit so there is 30 inches of counter on one side (with the fridge under) and then 18 inches on the other which should still be enough space for practical use.

That sounds about right. Much smaller than 18 inches and you don't have space for a platter or serving tray. I prefer having the ability to keep uncooked stuff on one side of the grill and cooked food on the other.
 
(Pulls soapbox out of corner) [rant]I am really annoyed at plywood manufacturers for changing the thickness of of their sheets from even quarter inch increments to 23/32 and 15/32 etc. Makes it more difficult to repair things when the boards are off.[/rant] (Pushes soapbox back into corner)

Need to replace the two "saddles" under a cupola that fit to the roof. They've been in place some decades and are rotted enough the no longer take paint. New plywood is just that much thinner than the existing and will leave small gaps. Looks like a lot of caulking to keep rain out of the gaps.
 
Anybody have good experiences with particular brands for outdoor fridges? Annoyingly, they all seem to have slightly different cutout measurements, so if I have my island built for one and it's a turd, an alternative isn't going to fit perfectly.
 
Any recommendations for a portable air conditioner? It is for a ~400 sq ft screened porch w/Eze-breeze windows.
 
Helped a friend with demolishing the insides of a garage converted to bedroom many years ago. Termites got in and had their way for many years, destroying walls and floor. I was surprised at how much of the foam insulation the termites ate. Didn't expect that.
 
The plywood treated for ground contact these days is terrible. Warped and curved. Much more suitable for slicing and making into bows than usable for flat decking. Just fininished redoing the surface on a wheelchair ramp and it was a real pain to get that stuff to flatten enough to roll a wheel chair on it.
 
When preparing to reseed lawn in next few weeks, should I spray and attempt to kill the crabgrass and buttonweed that has come up in late July?

I know they are annuals and cold weather will eventually kill them, but will they get in the way of new growth after resseeding?
 
When preparing to reseed lawn in next few weeks, should I spray and attempt to kill the crabgrass and buttonweed that has come up in late July?

I know they are annuals and cold weather will eventually kill them, but will they get in the way of new growth after resseeding?
Crabgrass is not an annual, it will be back with greater force next year. Use a weed/grass killer now and then reapply a week before seeding. If the crabgrass is starting to dominate next year hopefully you have a landscape or golf course friend who can sell you some Pylex.
 
Crabgrass is not an annual, it will be back with greater force next year. Use a weed/grass killer now and then reapply a week before seeding. If the crabgrass is starting to dominate next year hopefully you have a landscape or golf course friend who can sell you some Pylex.
I need to correct misinformation first.

Crabgrass is an annual. It dies when temperatures get cold. However, crabgrass plants produce lots of seeds that start a new generation each spring.

Buttonweed is a perennial. It spreads by seeds from the cute little white flowers and by rhizomes. In addition, cuttings from mowing can take root.

For fall seeding, adult crabgrass is an issue because it physically blocks the ability of new grass seedlings to grow and reach sunlight. In the spring, crabgrass seedlings will compete with new grass. Need to apply pre-emergent crabgrass seed killer early next spring. Before crabgrass seeds germinate. March or April, depending on your location and grass growing season.

You may need to put down buttonweed killer now, and continue in the spring. Otherwise buttonweed will continue to spread and choke out the new grass. It is a major weed infesting lawns.

Check websites of local ag schools for recommendations of specific products and timing of application. There are two timings to consider. One is the timing with respect to the status of the grass seed/new growth turf grass of whatever grass species you are seeding. You don't want to put down weed killer when grass seedlings may get killed by it.

The other is growing season timing. Crabgrass pre-emergent treatment works best when applied after most of winter is over but before crabgrass seeds germinate. Local ag sources can give you local knowledge on that timing.

Good luck!

https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/virginia-buttonweed/
 
The plywood treated for ground contact these days is terrible. Warped and curved. Much more suitable for slicing and making into bows than usable for flat decking. Just fininished redoing the surface on a wheelchair ramp and it was a real pain to get that stuff to flatten enough to roll a wheel chair on it.
Treated wood sucks now in general. I've got pressure treated lumber on various projects starting to rot out in less than 10-15 years, whereas previously it would last 20 or 25 easily. I think Home Depot and Lowes putting market pressure on costs over the last few decades has lead to considerably lower quality across the industry. I've shifted to 84 Lumber for pretty much everything at this point.
 
Noticed some cracks in my foundation while getting a quote in replacing a mini-split system (always something I guess).

We had someone do drainage remediation and foundation repair years ago but I think he did a shitty job and didn't address any actual structural issues.

So, anyone here have recommendations on foundation repair companies to contact in the Charlotte area?

Ram Jack is the only name I know from their commercials but figure someone here may have experienced similar issues and has some names to recommend (or avoid).

Thanks!
 
Can someone explain to me the phenomenon of shower faucets having no temperature range -basically going from lukewarm immediately to scalding hot, with no medium range?
 
All my ballers that's born to clock
Know I'ma be on top whether I perform or not
I went from lukewarm to hot
 
12/18 windows in my house need to be replaced. I assume at this point, I should just bite the bullet and do all 18? What's the best way to go about this? Reddit says to avoid Window stores at all costs. Should I plan to buy the windows myself then pay someone to come install them? I am not going to install the windows, don't have the time or skill to do so. Thanks!
 
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