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Thread: Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

  1. #361
    Quote Originally Posted by lbE08 View Post
    my guess is he got the braided flex lines to connect the hook-up to the fixture. there's no harm in having them longer, other than they just dangle and get all in the way when you're trying to put a 24-pack of TP under the vanity.
    Right, and they have special connectors on either end so you can't really cut and splice them. As long as it's ok to have an extra half-loop then I'll just hook them up. Thanks!

  2. #362
    When you put in the braided lines and loop them, just make sure that the loops aren't too tight and kink the lines. As long as the ends line up, and the lines aren't kinked, the length should not matter, except as noted previously, interfering with storage under the sink.

  3. #363
    So I used the nail gun this weekend. It definitely sped up the project, as I was able to put up the tongue-and-groove wanscoting on the two longest walls in the room in about a combined 6 hours between Saturday and Sunday, including the time it took to cut out around and extend the electrical outlets and trim the pieces in the corners. It looks really good so far. The other walls are shorter but will take longer because I have to go around/under windows and have two exterior corner angles coming off of a closet.

    The one complaint I have is that the gun is so powerful that, unlike nailing by hand, I have absolutely no idea if the nail is going into a stud or just the drywall. I'm gluing the planks in addition to nailing them, so even those not stud backed will be pretty solid, but that will definitely be a bigger problem when it comes time to put up the chair rail (I am going to paint the wall above it first before putting it on), because the wall is pretty bowed. Because the planks are vertical and narrow, they can follow the contour of the wall pretty easily. But with the chair rail being horizontal, it is really going to flex along the contour and want to pop out. I think I'm going to end up having to mark every stud in the damn room (insert bbd joke here) and use 2 1/2" nails or maybe even screws to make sure it sets.

  4. #364
    Someone else please tell me if this is totally wrong, but this is what i'd do:
    attach the chair rail using the nail gun, whatever glue, and hit the studs. it's not weight bearing, so screws would be way overboard. let the chair rail set up how it wants (assuming you're not using totally warped boards), and wherever they set - if there are small gapswhere the wall isn't 100% flat, it doesn't matter because you'd be running some caulk along that seam anyway. i feel like it's going to look more awkward to have a board screwed REALLY tightly to a wavy wall than it would to just let the board do its thing and fill in with caulk. granted, i don't know how warped your wall is... but it will just draw attention to it to have a wavy chair rail.
    I know how to spell definitely.

  5. #365
    I have a problem... anyone have any ideas wrt the following?

    We recently built a new mantle over our fireplace and a frame-like set-up on the wall to go around a new LED TV. We also added built-in window seats on each side - one side designed to hold the cable box and other components. As it was being built, I ran cables up through a pillar on one side of the new mantle - the cables go into the wall and exit behind the TV. I included HDMI cables for the cable box and a DVD player, along with some audio cables.

    Fast forward to installing the TV and, as we were plugging the HDMI cables into the TV, one of the connectors bent to like a 60 degree angle relative to the cable. As a result, I am not getting a signal down that cable - so the DVD won't connect.

    Because of the construction of the wall behind the mantle, the chimney running up from the fireplace, etc. - it is not possible to simply run another cable up through the pillar and behind the wall - at least not without tearing it all out and starting over - at a cost of hundred of dollars.

    I have been afraid to mess with the bent connector for fear of breaking it off completely. Do you think I could straighten it and have it work?

    The only other thing I can think of is to run a cable along the outside of the pillar and along the top of the mantle behind the TV - and try to hide it with some molding or something... This really pisses me off because it currently looks so nice and clean...

    Any thoughts?

  6. #366
    Quote Originally Posted by scooter84 View Post
    I have a problem... anyone have any ideas wrt the following?

    We recently built a new mantle over our fireplace and a frame-like set-up on the wall to go around a new LED TV. We also added built-in window seats on each side - one side designed to hold the cable box and other components. As it was being built, I ran cables up through a pillar on one side of the new mantle - the cables go into the wall and exit behind the TV. I included HDMI cables for the cable box and a DVD player, along with some audio cables.

    Fast forward to installing the TV and, as we were plugging the HDMI cables into the TV, one of the connectors bent to like a 60 degree angle relative to the cable. As a result, I am not getting a signal down that cable - so the DVD won't connect.

    Because of the construction of the wall behind the mantle, the chimney running up from the fireplace, etc. - it is not possible to simply run another cable up through the pillar and behind the wall - at least not without tearing it all out and starting over - at a cost of hundred of dollars.

    I have been afraid to mess with the bent connector for fear of breaking it off completely. Do you think I could straighten it and have it work?

    The only other thing I can think of is to run a cable along the outside of the pillar and along the top of the mantle behind the TV - and try to hide it with some molding or something... This really pisses me off because it currently looks so nice and clean...

    Any thoughts?
    You can try to bend it back but I doubt it will fix it... Best option would be an HDMI switch and use that one cable to operate both devices (I'm assuming they are already next to each other... Something like this would do it..

    http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301...ds=hdmi+switch

  7. #367
    can you just connect a new cable to the bent cable and pull it through?
    I know how to spell definitely.

  8. #368
    Quote Originally Posted by scooter84 View Post
    I have a problem... anyone have any ideas wrt the following?

    We recently built a new mantle over our fireplace and a frame-like set-up on the wall to go around a new LED TV. We also added built-in window seats on each side - one side designed to hold the cable box and other components. As it was being built, I ran cables up through a pillar on one side of the new mantle - the cables go into the wall and exit behind the TV. I included HDMI cables for the cable box and a DVD player, along with some audio cables.

    Fast forward to installing the TV and, as we were plugging the HDMI cables into the TV, one of the connectors bent to like a 60 degree angle relative to the cable. As a result, I am not getting a signal down that cable - so the DVD won't connect.

    Because of the construction of the wall behind the mantle, the chimney running up from the fireplace, etc. - it is not possible to simply run another cable up through the pillar and behind the wall - at least not without tearing it all out and starting over - at a cost of hundred of dollars.

    I have been afraid to mess with the bent connector for fear of breaking it off completely. Do you think I could straighten it and have it work?

    The only other thing I can think of is to run a cable along the outside of the pillar and along the top of the mantle behind the TV - and try to hide it with some molding or something... This really pisses me off because it currently looks so nice and clean...

    Any thoughts?
    Could you just buy a new HDMI cable and tape it to the damaged on and pull it through the wall?

  9. #369
    Quote Originally Posted by lbE08 View Post
    can you just connect a new cable to the bent cable and pull it through?
    Dammit. Beat me to it.

  10. #370
    A light in our ceiling fan went out a week ago. It's not a bulb issue, since replacing them didn't work, and I actually saw a flash of light and a popping sound. We got it from Lowe's and it's nothing special, so I'm wondering if it's even worth taking it apart or trying to find someone to fix it vs buying a new one. I might take it apart later just to see if I can visibly tell what the issue is.

  11. #371
    Most ceiling fans have a light kit that is separate from the fan itself. So you can likely just swap out the light kit for about $30 without replacing the entire fan.

  12. #372
    Scott "Rufio" Feather
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    I was forced to replace my front entry door this weekend. I had no idea how much front doors cost. I do now.

  13. #373
    Quote Originally Posted by 2&2 Slider To Leyritz View Post
    Most ceiling fans have a light kit that is separate from the fan itself. So you can likely just swap out the light kit for about $30 without replacing the entire fan.
    Thanks, do you think Lowe's carries them or are they something I would need to special order? I wonder if this is common in ceiling fans after a few years.

  14. #374
    I disagree with you
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    Quote Originally Posted by lbE08 View Post
    can you just connect a new cable to the bent cable and pull it through?
    or buy a ferret

  15. #375
    rolling quads since 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by siff View Post
    I was forced to replace my front entry door this weekend. I had no idea how much front doors cost. I do now.
    I have been looking at doors because I'd like to replace my front door as well. Would love some small windows in the door. Definitely pricier than I had expected even at the low end, and gosh they get really really costly.

  16. #376
    count me in the crew taken aback by how expensive doors are. we don't need a new front door, but we've got some rather crappy side/back doors that would use replacing, and the price made me choke.

  17. #377
    Quote Originally Posted by iodeac View Post
    Thanks, do you think Lowe's carries them or are they something I would need to special order? I wonder if this is common in ceiling fans after a few years.
    Lowes has a bunch of them in stock, different styles and colors. Is it one of their Harbor Breeze line? Many of those come without light kits and then you pick the light kit that you want, so you should be able to match something up, just get one from the same manufacturer. You just unscrew the kit from the existing fan, and there will be like a 16-plug wiring harness that you will just unplug and plug in the new one. If the light is a on a separate wall switch from the fan then there will be two additional bare wires to splice. It should only take you about 20 minutes to do, just make sure you turn the breaker off first.

  18. #378
    Scott "Rufio" Feather
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    Our home is about 7 1/2 years old. We face direct sun in the afternoon and made the mistake of getting a wood door when we built. Unfortunately, we also have sidelights and a transom. Pella came in and wanted ~$7K. Screw that. We then went to Home Depot and they had a beautiful iron door that was about the same (a bit less). We ended up getting a fiberglass door for about $3K. The combination of the door, sidelights and transom just kills you. Any customization (size, etc...) runs the price up.

  19. #379
    Quote Originally Posted by 2&2 Slider To Leyritz View Post
    Lowes has a bunch of them in stock, different styles and colors. Is it one of their Harbor Breeze line? Many of those come without light kits and then you pick the light kit that you want, so you should be able to match something up, just get one from the same manufacturer. You just unscrew the kit from the existing fan, and there will be like a 16-plug wiring harness that you will just unplug and plug in the new one. If the light is a on a separate wall switch from the fan then there will be two additional bare wires to splice. It should only take you about 20 minutes to do, just make sure you turn the breaker off first.
    I added a light kit to a fan in my apartment when I first moved to Atlanta. Just picked one up from the Home Depot (had no idea what brand fan it was, but the guy at HD said they were basically universal). It took me less than 30 minutes and I am completely useless when it comes to home improvement/DIY stuff (and I didn't have a ladder - was stretching a bit on a dining room chair). This will be a piece of cake for you, io.

  20. #380
    I just turned on the heat for the first time and noticed a burning smell coming from the air vents. It was enough to set off the smoke alarms, which beeped for a few seconds. Any idea What it could be? It doesn't occur with the AC set to cooling.

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

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