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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

Anybody ever replaced their headliner in their car by themselves?

Ugh, eff that noise. You'll have to drop and repair the board and re-install. I'm simplifying it, of course, but that's one of those things that I won't do; just no interest in interior work. That might be a job you can get done on the cheap. Good luck if you take it on.
 
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Anybody ever replaced their headliner in their car by themselves?

Yeah but it is a pain in the ass to get it smooth. One time in an old Jeep Cherokee I just used a staple gun and evenly spaced staples every few inches in lines about a foot apart. It gave it a unique upholstered look that actually got quite a few compliments from the ladies.
 
Really? Reading on the XJ subreddit, seems people have done it fairly easy. Mine does have a center console on the ceiling & a sound bar in the back so that may make it tricky.
 
Working on old cars is hard work. Bolted in a new wiring harness and ran the wires so I can upgrade the headlights. Come to find out, 2 bolts (out of 16 total) are completely rusted and seized. Absolutely at my wit's end. Going to have to take the headlight assembly into a shop and get help.
 
Got those pesky retainer bolts out; bought a new titanium drill bit and that did the trick. Finished everything up today; new headlights, new harness for the headlights, and ran the plumbing for the transmission oil cooler.

That was the last of my trip prep. Just going to load out these next two weeks and prepare to hit the road.
 
Working on old cars is hard work. Bolted in a new wiring harness and ran the wires so I can upgrade the headlights. Come to find out, 2 bolts (out of 16 total) are completely rusted and seized. Absolutely at my wit's end. Going to have to take the headlight assembly into a shop and get help.

Spray them with lots of Marvel Mystery Oil and let them soak overnight, they'll come loose.
 
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Got those pesky retainer bolts out; bought a new titanium drill bit and that did the trick. Finished everything up today; new headlights, new harness for the headlights, and ran the plumbing for the transmission oil cooler.

That was the last of my trip prep. Just going to load out these next two weeks and prepare to hit the road.

Are you taking it on a road trip or just to drive around town?
 
I forgot to mention:

I installed a ram mount in the cruiser to hold my iPad. It's paired via bluetooth with a Delorme Inreach to provide GPS so I can use the iPad for nav purposes offroad. I'm currently using MotionX as my mapping/nav app:

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So it turns out the guys that updated our house before they sold it to us didn't do a very good job. The latest issue is the grout in the shower is cracking up one side. I've never done any grout work before. Is there anything fancy I have to do to make sure I fix this properly? I assume I'd just clean out the old grout, clean it out as best I could to get out any mold/mildew, buy new grout and then add some sort of sealant on top.

I assume I should try to match grout color with the current color of the rest of the grout. Is there a special type of sealant i would need because it's a shower? There are some other areas (mainly the lines where the floor tile meets the wall tile of the shower), where the sealant appears intact, but there is some mold growing beneath it, so I was thinking I would strip it all out, try to clean (grout is such a bitch to clean, so any suggestions for what works best?), and then re-seal. This is what it looks like now (awful):

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I've gotta agree, that does look awful. Is this the only area in the shower where the grout is cracking, or just the worst area? It looks tight at the bottom, then gets worse as you get further away from the floor, then seems to tighten up (narrower crack) as you get close to the ceiling/top of wall. Is that correct, or just camera angle? The tile just below the glass blocks seems to be misaligned with the one below it. correct, or again, camera angle?

That much separation in grout lines should not happen. Something may be going on that is causing movement of the tile backing. Could be any number of causes. Bowing of the stud supporting the wall, insufficient fastening to handle the weight of the tile walls, or use of improper backing on the tiles (ordinary drywall instead of "greenboard" or concrete board tile backer are some of the most likely issues. You need to be sure that the underlying structure is sound, otherwise you will put in work redoing the grout and it will be back like this in some months.

I would make sure the stub wall is straight and flat on both sides. Put a long (4-6 foot long) level on both sides and see what you get.

Bleach is your friend in killing mold. there is really no cleaning of caulking, just removal, cleaning the underlying surfaces and then reapplying good quality caulk.

There are hand operated grout rakes. There are rotary tool (Dremel etc.) grout removal tools. You will need both. Power tool for most of the work (unless you are a real glutton for punishment and want to do it all by hand). Hand grout rake for the tight corners etc.

By the way, the split tile on the top of the sill is not the best way to do that. The joint in the middle is an invitation for water to sit and then eventually work its way through. The sill ideally is one solid piece.
 
My wife and I scrapped our fire pit design because we got tired of pulling weeds from the surrounding pond rocks every year, even despite putting down plastic between the dirt and pond rocks. We bought paver stones from Lowe's to make our fire pit surround, then put the fire pit we already had inside of it, and filled in the space with the pond rocks that used to be on the outside of the fire pit. I know this is probably a really dumb question, but is there any danger to having the fire pit so close to the pond rocks, once it gets really hot from having logs/coals in it? There's still a little bit of work we have to do, but the picture below is the general idea.
 

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