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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

My garbage disposal (Insinkerator Honeybadger) crapped out after 13 years and I replaced it with an Insinkerator Evolution a few weeks ago. I never knew a new garbage disposal could be so joyous. The Honeybadger would shake the entire kitchen and sounded like a lawnmower. The new one is virtually silent and obliterates anything in about 2 seconds. I've been dropping all sorts of shit down there just to see how quickly it can chew it up. Highly recommend for entertainment purposes alone.
 
agree 100%

yeah, after years of living in an apt with the lowest end disposal jamming up every time we threw in as little as some carrot peels, I insisted on buying the 1HP evolution when we redid our kitchen. so worth it.
 
I've got a house with battery operated smoke detectors - I'd like to swap those out for a hardwired unit with a battery back up. Is that the standard these days, or is hardwiring new units to the house power source just creating unnecessary complexity and cost?

i thought it was code

In most places it is code, although I'm sure there is some place in America that is still in 1970. The hardest part of switching from battery to hardwired with battery backup is running the interconnecting lines, assuming you are going by the book. Each of the detectors have to be connected so that if one goes off, they all go off.
 
In most places it is code, although I'm sure there is some place in America that is still in 1970. The hardest part of switching from battery to hardwired with battery backup is running the interconnecting lines, assuming you are going by the book. Each of the detectors have to be connected so that if one goes off, they all go off.

Doesn't appear to be code in Denver.

I've reached out to an electrician about getting it fixed. Came to my senses and realized this isn't something to go cheap on.
 
Doesn't appear to be code in Denver.

I've reached out to an electrician about getting it fixed. Came to my senses and realized this isn't something to go cheap on.

Good not to go cheap on this. If you have access to do the interconnects (attic, for instance) its not hard. Access can be difficult on first floor of a two story house.
 
I've got a house with battery operated smoke detectors - I'd like to swap those out for a hardwired unit with a battery back up. Is that the standard these days, or is hardwiring new units to the house power source just creating unnecessary complexity and cost?

Doesn't appear to be code in Denver.

I've reached out to an electrician about getting it fixed. Came to my senses and realized this isn't something to go cheap on.

Definitely agree with the bolded, especially with children. Its a pain when you overcook something on a cast iron skillet and the entire house is alarming, but in the middle of the night I'd rather have them all go off in case of a fire than just one that might be muffled.
 
Anyone use the Nest Protect? Leaning towards installing a few of those in the house looking for some first hand experience or opinions of the device.
 
Tub, hair from all my pube shaving


They now make hair catchers for tub and shower drains. You may want to invest in those. Not expensive, available at most hardware stores. They replace the drain closer/cover and have a basket you remove to get rid of hair before it gets into the pipes.
 
Found someone to install new hardwood floors in the bedrooms, but planning to purchase the wood myself. Any general advice? Avoid Home Depot? Worth paying a little extra on any features?
 
Found someone to install new hardwood floors in the bedrooms, but planning to purchase the wood myself. Any general advice? Avoid Home Depot? Worth paying a little extra on any features?

A few thoughts for you. You didn't provide a lot of detail about the specific situation you are going to have the floors installed, so some of the following may not be applicable in your situation.

Do you have a particular wood species in mind?

Decide which way you want the boards to run. Some people like the boards to run in the same direction as light from windows. Others like the boards to run the longer dimension of the room. Once you have the boards, you can lay some down and see which direction looks better in your situation. This can be forced by the type of subfloor you have, and/or the direction of the floor joists.


Get the wood far enough in advance of the install to let it sit in the room where it is to be installed. Most places recommend at least four days. This allows the wood to acclimate to the temperature and humidity of the room. I try for at least a week. A nuisance yes, but I'd rather deal with that than flooring that isn't fully acclimated.

Check with the installer to see if he has any preferred suppliers/discounts.

No reason to skip any of the big box stores. They may be carrying stuff from the same manufacturers as the "flooring stores."

Make sure the product is correct for your installation situation. If you are installing in slab on grade rooms as opposed to second story or above a basement, regular tongue and groove hardwood boards will not do well. You will need "engineered wood" flooring.

Make sure your subfloor is sound, solid, level (or at least flat) and doesn't squeak before board one of the new finish floor is installed. Check it and put in nails or screws anywhere it feels a little bit soft, loose or squeaky. Make sure there are no lumps, bumps, rises or low spots in the subfloor. They can lead to the hardwood squeaking.

(If applicable) See what the extra thickness of the hardwood floor will do to the height of the top step. You may not think an extra 5/8 or 3/4 inch (assuming tongue and groove hardwood boards) is much, but it can make ascending the stairs difficult, particularly in the dark. You will catch your foot on the top step much more often than you think you will.

I would go prefinished. You haven't seen dust until you have hardwood floors sanded and finished in place after installation. Biggest reasons not too are to get a particular floor color or to have improved water resistance by finishing in place.

Depending on what you get for your finish, you might want to investigate adding a coat (or several) of polyurethane or other clear coat over top. It will extend the life of the finish by a lot. It will also improve the resistance to spilled liquids by filling and sealing the tiny spaces between the boards. Some factory finishes don't need it, or can only accept specific ones, or none aat all. Check what you decide to get. Dad did the overcoat on the hardwoods when we were growing up. Four kids, lots of friends, two dogs, and six cats. 20 years later, the stairs were the only thing that showed much wear.
 
anyone have experience or insight on using a space planner to remodel current square footage vs. just getting bids for an addition?
 
Just knock a wall down here and there for open concept, add a sledgehammer montage and you’re done.
 
i use PowerPoint to construct scale versions of the rooms/furniture i'm work in/on.
 
i use PowerPoint to construct scale versions of the rooms/furniture i'm work in/on.

Yeah, I could/should do this... but right now, ain’t nobody got time for that.
In the past I’ve cut out scale pieces of paper and moved them around a scale drawing of a room.
 
Yeah, I could/should do this... but right now, ain’t nobody got time for that.
In the past I’ve cut out scale pieces of paper and moved them around a scale drawing of a room.

struggling to see how that's less time (unless you're using the nub it in the middle of a laptop)
 
struggling to see how that's less time (unless you're using the nub it in the middle of a laptop)

Even though it's basically the same thing, I find the tactile aspect of physically moving things around myself (rather than 'conceptually' on the computer screen) more helpful.
 
Even though it's basically the same thing, I find the tactile aspect of physically moving things around myself (rather than 'conceptually' on the computer screen) more helpful.

I'm with you on that. Much more meaningful to push the "paper dolls" around on a graph layout of the room than move some lines on the computer. Makes it (for me) much easier to see where things don't fit right. I use card stock for the furniture. Did it for years for office moves. Draw up the new office space, break out the envelope of furniture cutouts and start placing and moving them.

Much easier on your back than trying the couch against the east wall, then the north wall, then back to the east wall...
 
that's funny. i love the PowerPoint for the opposite reason. i can just make infinite blank copies of the room and compare set ups. i think i have 7 different layouts when i did my office.
 
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