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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

ImTheCaptain said:
that's funny. i love the PowerPoint for the opposite reason. i can just make infinite blank copies of the room and compare set ups. i think i have 7 different layouts when i did my office.
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I never had much luck with computers telling me when my desk and file cabinet were partially occupying the same space. Do you have some trick for that?
 
Deaconblue said:
I never had much luck with computers telling me when my desk and file cabinet were partially occupying the same space. Do you have some trick for that?
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hm? i make a scale version of the room and all the furniture/fixtures and move them around. opaque shapes overlapping would seem to function the same as paper overlapping?
 
Anyone care to vouch for a keyless/electronic deadbolt for the front door? Any particular styles or brands that are best?
 
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Installed a quickset. No bluetooth but it does what it needs to do. For sub $100, I would recommend it.
 
2&2 Slider To Leyritz said:
That looks pretty cool. But I assume since that just sits over the deadbolt that you can't use the lock in the actual doorknob as well, or else it defeats the purpose?
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It replaces the thumb latch on the inside of the door, but yes, you wouldn't want to use the knob lock with this model.
 
Due to several storms involving hail I recently had my roof inspected and my insurance company is going to replace it. In fact I have already received the first of 2 checks.

When I call a few roofing companies, do I need to mention the fact that insurance is taking care of it or that I simply want my roof replaced because it is older? Will that affect their quote?
 
as long as the estimates are not way off it really shouldn't matter. the first check is the ACV amount and the hold-back is the replacement difference; if the actual cost comes in a little off he estimate the supplement process should be pretty simple.

as long as they're not recommending upgrades or additional, non-hail related repairs and/or your company doesn't suck
 
so, does anyone know anything about baseboard-hot water systems?

every time ours kicks on it sounds like a rush of water and it sees to get worse. i've bled the system time and time again, usually every couple weeks and it doesn't seem to matter. is it possible that the part(s) that regulate the amount of water in the lines is not keeping them full enough?
 
ImTheCaptain said:
so, does anyone know anything about baseboard-hot water systems?

every time ours kicks on it sounds like a rush of water and it sees to get worse. i've bled the system time and time again, usually every couple weeks and it doesn't seem to matter. is it possible that the part(s) that regulate the amount of water in the lines is not keeping them full enough?
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Some questions for you.
How much air are you getting out each time you bleed?
Is your make up water automatic or manual?
Have you looked at all the stuff you can see for signs of leakage?
How old is the furnace?
 
Deaconblue said:
Some questions for you.
How much air are you getting out each time you bleed?
Is your make up water automatic or manual?
Have you looked at all the stuff you can see for signs of leakage?
How old is the furnace?
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A fair amount

I assume it’s automatic but actually don’t know [what to look for].

I’ve followed all the lines and baseboards to check for leaks with no noticeable damage.

I have to assume the system is quite old; mid 60s. When we moved in in 2013 and since I’ve asked HVAC guys to check it out/recommend a replacement and they’ve all said the furnace is fine. The bleeding/rushing sounds/knocking has steadily gotten worse.
 
Your house has two sets of pipes. One is the usual set for supplying water to sinks, toilets etc. This set is connected to your water supply - water company, well etc.

The other set of pipes is circulating your water for heating. That set goes from your furnace to the baseboard heaters and back again. Somewhere there is a valve that connects the two, and allows water from your house water supply to be added to the heating loop of pipes. This valve may be manual, which means you have to open it to allow more water to enter your heating loop. Or it may be automatic, operating on pressure difference between your house flow and the heating loop pressure.

If the automatic valve isn't operating properly, it doesn't let (enough) water into the heating side when you bleed the baseboards. If you have a manual valve, you need to open it when you bleed the system so that water replaces the air.

All the images I can find are copyright, so I don't want to post. However, look at Ispectipedia.com for some images of what to look for to find the auto fill valve.

If you have manual control fill valve, it will usually look like a handle for an outside water faucet or have a short lever handle. Either one would be located where a pipe from you house water supply connects to the heating system. This is usually near your furnace.

If you want to post or pm some pics of your furnace area and pipes, I'll see if I can spot it.
 
CantStandYa said:
Anyone tried to convert a 110/120v outlet to a 220/240?
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It is almost always a bad idea. Could be a big fire hazard in addition to not meeting electric safety code.

You need to run larger wires from your breaker panel to where you want your 220/240V (I'll use 240 for shorthand) outlet. You also need three current carrying wires instead of the two usually used for 120 V circuits. That is, three wires (usually white, black and red) plus (usually bare) ground wire, not just two wires (white and black, usually) plus ground.

Most applications for 240 V are done because there is a large total power draw for a large appliance like an electric stove, electric dryer, air conditioner, etc. Not only do they use 240 volts, they are usually on a breaker (or breakers) considerably larger than the 15 or 20 amp breaker found protecting 120V circuits.

I just checked my box, and the 240 V circuits have 30 or 50 amp breakers. A/C, electric stove, electric dryer, electric water heater.

Get an electrician to run proper size wire for your application and install the correct breakers in your electric breaker panel box and proper outlet configuration for 240 V at the appliance connection end.
 
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Thanks for the info. I'll be curious to see what a typical electrician charges for something like this. The rub is my breaker panel is in the basement and I need the 240v in the garage.
 
CantStandYa said:
Thanks for the info. I'll be curious to see what a typical electrician charges for something like this. The rub is my breaker panel is in the basement and I need the 240v in the garage.
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I assume you have space in your breaker panel for some additional breakers? you may need more than one slot side by side for a 50 amp breaker.

The hard part of this is running the cable from your breaker box to the garage location where you need the 240 V power. That is probably going to be the bulk of the cost of the project.

240 V breakers are a little more expensive, and the heavier (probably 10 or 12 gauge) three wire cable is more expensive, compared to the material for a standard 120 V, 15 amp circuit.
 
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