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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

Neither option gives the grillmaster a line of sight to the TV. Is this of interest or important?

Could the grill be flipped in option 2 so it is nearer the corner post and the grillmaster would face the other direction (from the way he would face in option#2)? That way the TV and the patio scene would be would be about 45 degrees left of the grillmaster. Most of the yard would be to the right.
 
Deaconblue said:
One thing I can't identify is a refrigerator on the patio somewhere. It's good to have a place to keep drinks and whatever you plan to grill cold and close.

Option 2 leaves the grill master with his back to the patio and most of the yard over left shoulder. Or am I missing something about yard layout?
Click to expand...

Yeah. Part of the reason we didn’t like option 2 is you would your back to everything, and just be staring at the neighbors fence while grilling. Turning it around it a good idea. Wherever the grill is the plan is to have the fridge built in to the same structure.

If we turned the grill to face the other way, could possibly even have the fridge on the other side to have easy access from the patio area.
 
Are you committed to a permanently placed grill? Think about whether a mobile grill makes sense. It could be out from under the roof for grilling time so smoke goes away, but stored under cover during the non-grilling days.
 
I'd go with one of those L-shaped grill islands, in option 2, and face the back of the grill away from the house (90 degree from current) then the L part would have a little seating/serving ledge, and while grilling you're sideways to the action, can look over your left shoulder at the TV, house/patio lights illuminate the grill grates, etc.
 
what do you call this latch type for a kitchen cabinet door?

E588-C4-E0-CD8-C-4-D51-BFB5-F666-E92788-CF.jpg
 
JuiceCrewAllStar said:
what do you call this latch type for a kitchen cabinet door?

E588-C4-E0-CD8-C-4-D51-BFB5-F666-E92788-CF.jpg
Click to expand...

That mmight be half of a double roller catch. But very hard to tell from that pic and it being a pic of only one part of the catch. Need pic of what this part goes into.

What does knowing the name get you? Do you need to replace it or???
 
goes into an open gap/maw -- spring loaded behind the roller to allow into the opening

yep, need to replace it -- pretty sure these cabinets are original to the unit built in the 1920s

replacement needed for a latch not showing here -- the spring mechanism broke on the one I need to replace
 
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Could have been a standard catch 100 years ago. Or could have been a manufacturer private design. The only name might have been something like "spring catch part number xxx."

Spring type cabinet catches changed once plastic became widely available.

To find a replacement, internet search for reuse of stuff. Places like Restoration Hardware. Or try to find a currently available catch with approximately the same geometry.

You may end up having to settle for an available catch that keeps the cabinet closed. Not a very satisfactory solution for vintage cabinets.

ETA:

Another possibility is to rebuild it yourself. Get a spring of the size to fit. Not fun to take apart and put back together, I would guess.

Pic of the broken part would be helpful to giving you better advice on a rebuild.
 
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I've got to replace a leaking toilet seal.

Fluidmaster makes a no wax rubber thing. Should I try it or just use the traditional wax thing?

Thx
 
So I've got some damp carpet in my basement bedroom and can't really figure out why at this point. This is what the spot outside the house looks like that's maybe 6' above the floor and carpet in that bedroom (window well on the left here).
uIB6Ip1RLWENX6oG049fy4h_N0I7y2mQH0t6uSd2EgtAfz2fFUib-Khb2adZQIfzIFMys7jsprGZ3b2Hi_83ajQWgLpLsFL_5qSAGd2C-qK358xlkPsvliHkqx-6u43MtS9sl7J7zTZyKjRsEq958dWEz7s3hb1ydAp7n0JixZYy8n-i8dPGjz0YconCKmGWy-voYmtWn_CzFJQ9SofeVqgtAz4bbUfaBnRdnG08n0nU06Eqvv53id0qF0mfQOdI9wvPA9ExJxaN1NN_LpFoSTbP1v2CwtAOLibHvN_821hZCqdzHqiFJ1pR6pzWoYcpRlbOZxl3-vUedfeYQ2-C_17a_JAHRBB986mesWWaZMZxUtu5KwnYHVpiuYz61HU9iMfdJSfqYXYFBf72F40O-IrM0JCuCXVC6wWReEijIGTFqJqmXSAyu1Fm42nDpn95R846D2Auvq4LxQhksgF3tOpxJKm7JI48mmG_BGvDOqC7kHpQrcyRaBJkRG0yBuuc_Wzo4MNm0GxU5QmtLLWw73DHlVKaAUwpNZg87P-pRLGH5VL7fh8FjOLCpNRSWG-gtiHjeeAgrpoXUXq7m7Hz6BNDLtohG64x2SmzF8oH8YsvfMAdNSOHptNQsHRf5s3NUS0XygmJWpPKCitrPS2i-xaReXQQ5hhOxd4KNPXG7mP6JExFK4eYmFBH08ofKSwVRahT-WipZTBIbSM__jp4TLbc32PgkP25xt4Myjo4YIS1RMezOpxQp4k=w1174-h880-no


The drain there is the sump, the other is just an air intake. For an unknown period of time, the sump ground drain was overgrown at the daylight and it was backing up and overflowing every time the sump ran (it doesn't run THAT often but we did get a lot of rain a couple times over the last few weeks). However, it's been clear and fine for a week and a half now, and after I dry out the carpet by running a fan for a while, it keeps getting damp again. There's a spigot to the right in this image that would be the only other plumbing in the area, but regardless if I clean the carpet with a towel the towel comes back very brown, so I don't think it's a plumbing issue. There's also a downspout for my gutters maybe 8' further right, but it drains down the grade far away from the house, and there isn't much rain getting to this spot.

Anyone have any thoughts? Is it possible the ground is just so saturated that it'll take a long time to dry out?
 
The picture didn't show up for me.

The causes of wet basement issues are often hard to find.
 
Deaconblue said:
The causes of wet basement issues are often hard to find.
Click to expand...

Truth. I've been fighting water in my basement each of the 10 years I've lived in this house. We think that maybe, just maybe, we have finally fixed the last piece of the puzzle.
 
Deaconblue said:
The picture didn't show up for me.

The causes of wet basement issues are often hard to find.
Click to expand...

Completely agree. But here's the image, hopefully working this time. Maybe a better question is, would it be surprisingly for about 6' of soil in that corner to stay damp enough to seep into my basement very very slowly for more than 2 weeks? It's foundation wall all the way down from that corner.

lMgI96n.png
 
I can see the picture this time.

The ground shows cracking, indicating it is being undermined and the subsurface soil is being washed somewhere, most likely into your basement. Hence your dirty towels. Any idea how long this has been happening?

Somewhere there is a source of water that is.moving the dirt. I'm going to speculate here. There could be issues with the drain after it goes into the ground. Are you sure the drain carries all the water that goes into the drain to wherever it daylights? A cracked pipe with or without improper slope can sneak a lot of water into the ground beside the foundation.

The air intake says there is a gas furnace or water heater. Quite possibly condensate water is coming from the furnace and/or water heater and providing a nearly continuous source of water into the drain.

Somewhere there is a crack or cracks in the basement wall that allow the water to enter. Keeping water out is difficult. Small gaps in the parging (waterproofing) on the outside of the wall can let in water that gets against the wall.

The goal is to keep water away from.the wall.
 
Donkey Deac Doug said:
Between blue and I, we can probably help you out here. Can you give us pictures of: (1) the first stopcock going back from the end of the line, (2) the nut, (3) anything you've taken off the end of the line.

It's possible that you're trying to unscrew something that will have to be cut off, which isn't the end of the world, but would require one of two (relatively cheap) specialized tools.
Click to expand...

tag: DDD requests pics of cock and nuts
 
We have a light out in our garage. Before we have somebody come out and just fix it, is there any sort of updated technology we should be exploring to replace a standard fluorescent set up?

Current fixture is probably 20 years old.
 
DeaconCav06 said:
We have a light out in our garage. Before we have somebody come out and just fix it, is there any sort of updated technology we should be exploring to replace a standard fluorescent set up?

Current fixture is probably 20 years old.
Click to expand...

LED could be an option depending on the fixture.
 
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