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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

What’s the best way to cut out (remove) a section of crown molding?

I would use an oscillating multitool with a fine tooth saw blade.

See number 5 in the Rockwell linked site.

http://blog.rockwelltools.com/10-things-can-multi-tool/

Because I can't edit my earlier, here are some additional thoughts.

If you are planning to remove a section of the crown molding and will leave it gone, then the above is the way to go.

If you are removing some of the molding and planning to replace it (repair underneath or whatever), consider removing the whole piece of molding from existing joint to joint. This may well be corner to corner. It is difficult to remove a section and put it back and have it not look like something was cut and repaired.


Thx.

I suspected that oscillating multitool was the way to go. Just don't have one or any experience using one. So I may just have a carpenter come and help with this one. For this job, we'd be removing a section and not replacing it--putting an old cabinet and bookshelf on the wall and the shelving already had molding at the top that seems integral to it.
 
i'm not too worried about the industrial look as I got some spray paint to do some colorful stuff with it


I'm looking for something that can slide over the pipe and then tighten with a screwdriver or something

Like a hose clamp? Depending on how heavy the shelf is that might hold it with the tightening part as the shelf tab, or you could try to somehow connect the shelf tab to the screw.
 
i'm not too worried about the industrial look as I got some spray paint to do some colorful stuff with it


I'm looking for something that can slide over the pipe and then tighten with a screwdriver or something

You could use hose clamps to hold the shelf tab brackets in place. That would allow mini adjustments to get the shelves level. However, I wouldn't put much weight on shelves held that way.

If you could put one or two screws in after adjusting, that would be a lot stronger.
 
i'm not too worried about the industrial look as I got some spray paint to do some colorful stuff with it


I'm looking for something that can slide over the pipe and then tighten with a screwdriver or something

After thinking about this some more, I would use U-shaped pipe/conduit clamps and attach 1x4 boards to the pipes. That way you would have some consistency of look along the divider and could put your cleats at whatever height you need for level shelves. Something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Electric-ProConnex-2-1-2-in-Two-hole-Strap-Intermediate-Metal-Conduit-Compatible-Galvanized-Rigid-Conduit-Compatible-Rigid-Metal-Conduit-Compatible-Conduit-Fitting/1052679
 
After thinking about this some more, I would use U-shaped pipe/conduit clamps and attach 1x4 boards to the pipes. That way you would have some consistency of look along the divider and could put your cleats at whatever height you need for level shelves. Something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sigma-Electric-ProConnex-2-1-2-in-Two-hole-Strap-Intermediate-Metal-Conduit-Compatible-Galvanized-Rigid-Conduit-Compatible-Rigid-Metal-Conduit-Compatible-Conduit-Fitting/1052679

had the same thought, but any concern about splitting the cross beams?

I guess you go 2x4s or something thicker than 1"
 
had the same thought, but any concern about splitting the cross beams?

I guess you go 2x4s or something thicker than 1"

If you drill holes and use proper size screws you shouldn't have a splitting issue. You can use short wood screws. Or drill through the 1x4 and use machine screws with washers and nuts.

An option instead of going to 2x4 is double 1x4. That will look a lot more like the rest of the 1x4s you were planning to use. That would give you square corners on the boards instead of the rounded ones on 2x4s. Glue the 1x4s together as you assemble. Glue with screws (1-1/4 inch long, #8 or #10).
 
I’m having our new TV mounted to the wall and the wires hidden. An estimate is being done Monday morning. I have no idea what a reasonable price for this work is. Any ideas/experience?
 
I’m having our new TV mounted to the wall and the wires hidden. An estimate is being done Monday morning. I have no idea what a reasonable price for this work is. Any ideas/experience?

Things that will impact the price
Size of TV
Length of wire hiding
Mounting bracket
Construction of wall where TV is to be mounted
Your geographic location
 
Things that will impact the price
Size of TV
Length of wire hiding
Mounting bracket
Construction of wall where TV is to be mounted
Your geographic location

Thanks. 75 inch TV; pretty short distance from TV to existing outlet/cable connection; undetermined on the mount, was going to see what they recommended; interior wall; downtown Raleigh.
 
Mount itself will be around $100, depending on quality. I wouldn't use one where 75 inch is upper limit for the mount. Service is going to be at least $100 over that. Probably more.
 
Mount itself will be around $100, depending on quality. I wouldn't use one where 75 inch is upper limit for the mount. Service is going to be at least $100 over that. Probably more.

I appreciate it. That's lower than I was thinking all of this would cost.
 
I'm sure there's a better thread for this, but help me decide if I should rent our existing townhouse or sell it. Monthly rent - mortgage & HOA would yield about $400 a month. For round numbers, we'll say selling it will net out $50K (probably a bit more). Already took out some equity in a refi last year to help use for the down payment on the new house as well.

For tax purposes, it shouldn't be hard to show rental loss and avoid taxes on all rental income. With passive income, my understanding is any loss shown can't offset regular earned income, though. In theory, selling and investing the cash in the market should yield a higher return than the rental income + townhouse appreciation (less than regular SFR appreciation, no land). But with "these uncertain times" and the property being in a great location, I'm wondering if that might be the wiser investment.

The other question would be whether we should put money into it before renting or selling. To make it move-in ready, it probably only needs $1-2K of work. But some of the units have put in $8-20K to update the kitchen/master bathrooms. Unsure how much more that might yield in rent, or if we'd make it back immediately in a sale.
 
I'm sure there's a better thread for this, but help me decide if I should rent our existing townhouse or sell it. Monthly rent - mortgage & HOA would yield about $400 a month. For round numbers, we'll say selling it will net out $50K (probably a bit more). Already took out some equity in a refi last year to help use for the down payment on the new house as well.

For tax purposes, it shouldn't be hard to show rental loss and avoid taxes on all rental income. With passive income, my understanding is any loss shown can't offset regular earned income, though. In theory, selling and investing the cash in the market should yield a higher return than the rental income + townhouse appreciation (less than regular SFR appreciation, no land). But with "these uncertain times" and the property being in a great location, I'm wondering if that might be the wiser investment.

The other question would be whether we should put money into it before renting or selling. To make it move-in ready, it probably only needs $1-2K of work. But some of the units have put in $8-20K to update the kitchen/master bathrooms. Unsure how much more that might yield in rent, or if we'd make it back immediately in a sale.

https://www.irs.gov/taxtopics/tc701

Read that. It's important to your decision. tl;dr - you've got a few years of rental income before you really have to decide.
 
shelves are mostly finished -- many thanks to blue for all the advice along the way

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Wow. Looks good. I like that open look. Floor to ceiling pipe makes me feel better that it won't fall over if accidentally bumped, or attacked by kids.:D
 
Back a few months ago, mrstsy decided a new chicken coop would be my COVID project. Here are a few pics of the journey, starting with our brooding coop. The design is after a Carolina Coops pattern.
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The brooding coop supposedly holds up to 8 hens, but our 5 quickly needed more space.

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Rather than use a predator apron, I decided to go with 3ft deep footings with 4x4s bolted on top.

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The frame starting to come together, total size is 20'x8'.

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The back fully opens to access and clean out the coop. Not even halfway finished and the hens are already scoping out the new digs.

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Tar papered and ready for the metal roof.

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View from inside the run. I worried the ramp would be too high, but the chicks navigated it beautifully.

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Metal roof installed. We had to expedite the process when the hens started laying eggs a couple weeks ago. Interestingly enough, even though the coop was not finished, they knew exactly where to go to start laying the eggs.

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Another view of the rear. The inner doors open and will have 1/4" hardware cloth to allow maximum ventilation. According to the designers, there is little to no smell, and using the deep litter method, the coop will only need to be cleaned out every 10-12 months.
 
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