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Official OGBoards Golf Thread

You talking about delofting during their swing, or physically changing the loft of the club permanently? I know people who have done both.

Physically changing the loft. And it's a generalization on my part to say most pros lower the loft on their irons. Most pros do tinker with lofts, but many do so simply to get a consistent yardage gap between clubs. That's why you'll hear things like "This is a 54 degree bent to 55."
 
Physically changing the loft. And it's a generalization on my part to say most pros lower the loft on their irons. Most pros do tinker with lofts, but many do so simply to get a consistent yardage gap between clubs. That's why you'll hear things like "This is a 54 degree bent to 55."

I'm sorry for all the n00b questions...I did some research and it sounds like lower ball flight keeps it out of the wind leading to more distance. Is that right?
 
I'm sorry for all the n00b questions...I did some research and it sounds like lower ball flight keeps it out of the wind leading to more distance. Is that right?
Correct. Lower ball flight with irons is caused by pinching the ball and creating more contact with grooves thus increasing backspin. Most amateurs take no divot and sweep their irons (high ball flight) as opposed to pinching.
 
Correct. Lower ball flight with irons is caused by pinching the ball and creating more contact with grooves thus increasing backspin. Most amateurs take no divot and sweep their irons (high ball flight) as opposed to pinching.

That is what I generally do.
 
Physically changing the loft. And it's a generalization on my part to say most pros lower the loft on their irons. Most pros do tinker with lofts, but many do so simply to get a consistent yardage gap between clubs. That's why you'll hear things like "This is a 54 degree bent to 55."

Yea this also helps change the bounce of wedges to their ideal desired degree. I wish I had the time/effort/money to do this. So, LK, if I am a low handicapper who hits it pretty near to pro distances but really really high (terrible wind player), should I have my irons delofted a degree or two?
 
Yea this also helps change the bounce of wedges to their ideal desired degree. I wish I had the time/effort/money to do this. So, LK, if I am a low handicapper who hits it pretty near to pro distances but really really high (terrible wind player), should I have my irons delofted a degree or two?

I'd play around with shafts that have a higher kick point first. Then ball position. Or use a less spinny ball.

I switched from the pro V1 to the pro V1x and brought my ball flight down considerably with all clubs. Much less backspin for me.

I think the best point is that it varies from player to player. We all have so many quirks in our own swings that there's no one fix.

Almost every issue with trajectory can be resolved with a proper shaft fitting. If you're a low single digit handicapper, you may consider some stiffer shafts in your irons, such as a True Temper x100 or Rifle 6.0s or even 6.5s.
 
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I already have x100s, and usually play the x as opposed to the original pro V1 (although I don't discriminate when they are given to me). If this continues throughout the summer, I think I might get them bent. Although I'd feel a little ridiculous hitting PW from 150.
 
played in a scramble today but got rained delayed and it got shortened from 18 holes to 9. had to split right after so i'm not sure if i won the drawing for a brand new scotty putter. i'm going to go ahead and assume i did.
 
I already have x100s, and usually play the x as opposed to the original pro V1 (although I don't discriminate when they are given to me). If this continues throughout the summer, I think I might get them bent. Although I'd feel a little ridiculous hitting PW from 150.

The number on the bottom of the club doesn't matter. It's your 150 club. That's all you should care about.
 
I already have x100s, and usually play the x as opposed to the original pro V1 (although I don't discriminate when they are given to me). If this continues throughout the summer, I think I might get them bent. Although I'd feel a little ridiculous hitting PW from 150.

What kind of irons do you play? I have similar issues but switched to a mixed set of blades and cb's this year. It's not so much about how high you hit it - even pros hit their irons high as hell, but blades in the short irons have a better, flatter trajectory and don't get as crushed by the wind. Plus they're easier to flight down.

Seems like every iron released these days is geared towards increasing spin and hitting it higher.
 
What kind of irons do you play? I have similar issues but switched to a mixed set of blades and cb's this year. It's not so much about how high you hit it - even pros hit their irons high as hell, but blades in the short irons have a better, flatter trajectory and don't get as crushed by the wind. Plus they're easier to flight down.

Seems like every iron released these days is geared towards increasing spin and hitting it higher.


Have played blades most of my life, but just switched to the Titleist ZB's. Blades up until 8 iron then slightly increasing cavity after that. I seem to be hitting these lower due to the X100 vs S400 in my old 690 MBs. If people aren't aware, and want shafts in between stiff and X, go with S400s.
 
DCDeac speaks the truth about how irons are built to launch the ball higher now. I'd say DCDeac is probably the board equipment expert...from our conversations over PM I'd say he's even more into the equipment stuff than I am.
 
DCDeac speaks the truth about how irons are built to launch the ball higher now. I'd say DCDeac is probably the board equipment expert...from our conversations over PM I'd say he's even more into the equipment stuff than I am.

I'm not as into it as I used to be. I used to build my own clubs, mainly driven by the fact that when I really got serious about playing it was impossible to find x-flex shafts anywhere except on order (not counting x100's).

Now with interchangeable shafts and being able to alter lie angles and loft on everything except irons with a few clicks of a torque wrench, it's way easier to find the right setup even if you're an outlier. Finally settled in with my 910d3 and the only thing I've been playing around with now is my putter and 3 wood - both of which I think are set for a while. (If you haven't hit an Adams XTD Super Hybrid... You should...)

Tigerswood - I picked up the new MB's for 7-pw and the new AP2's for the 3-6 (no idea why they don't make a 2 iron in the AP2, I still use my old Taylormade R7 TP) and splurged for the Dynamic Gold Tour Issue. That combo is just about perfect for me - now if I step on my 8 iron it doesn't just spin more, go higher, and end up the same distance - it actually goes further.

You could try something like Project X 7.0's (obv not flighted) but honestly if you're hitting x100 blades too high, it's probably due to a steep angle of attack or a super wrist hinge like Ogilvy. Hitting the ball high and spinning it a bunch is a good thing usually. Work on a Stricker dead wrist move if you want, or just be like Daly and start hitting everything 3/4 with an extra club if the wind is up...
 
I'm not as into it as I used to be. I used to build my own clubs, mainly driven by the fact that when I really got serious about playing it was impossible to find x-flex shafts anywhere except on order (not counting x100's).

Now with interchangeable shafts and being able to alter lie angles and loft on everything except irons with a few clicks of a torque wrench, it's way easier to find the right setup even if you're an outlier. Finally settled in with my 910d3 and the only thing I've been playing around with now is my putter and 3 wood - both of which I think are set for a while. (If you haven't hit an Adams XTD Super Hybrid... You should...)

Tigerswood - I picked up the new MB's for 7-pw and the new AP2's for the 3-6 (no idea why they don't make a 2 iron in the AP2, I still use my old Taylormade R7 TP) and splurged for the Dynamic Gold Tour Issue. That combo is just about perfect for me - now if I step on my 8 iron it doesn't just spin more, go higher, and end up the same distance - it actually goes further.

You could try something like Project X 7.0's (obv not flighted) but honestly if you're hitting x100 blades too high, it's probably due to a steep angle of attack or a super wrist hinge like Ogilvy. Hitting the ball high and spinning it a bunch is a good thing usually. Work on a Stricker dead wrist move if you want, or just be like Daly and start hitting everything 3/4 with an extra club if the wind is up...

It's the super wrist hinge for me, or maybe a combo of the two. I don't spin the ball a ridiculous amount either which is odd and lucky given my ball flight.

You must have paid out the rear for that set with the tour issues/mixing irons, or you have good connections. I'm surprised you went with the AP2s instead of the CBs. I'm not a big fan of any plastic/composite stuff on my irons, plus the clubheads seemed too fat for me. Definitely hit them solid though.
 
It's the super wrist hinge for me, or maybe a combo of the two. I don't spin the ball a ridiculous amount either which is odd and lucky given my ball flight.

You must have paid out the rear for that set with the tour issues/mixing irons, or you have good connections. I'm surprised you went with the AP2s instead of the CBs. I'm not a big fan of any plastic/composite stuff on my irons, plus the clubheads seemed too fat for me. Definitely hit them solid though.

A buddy of mine is thinking about going pro so he has some connections. I actually had a set of the old AP2's that I played for the past 2 years, loved the long irons but the short irons I just overspun and hit too high. He hooked me on the new set and I just about broke even ditching the old irons on ebay.

I know a CB/MB combo seems to make more sense, but for me it didn't. The distances on the AP2's are more consistent for me - the CB's seem to juice the ball an extra 10 yards when you catch them pure. I suppose if you're awesome and hit pure 6 irons on every swing like Bill Haas that's fine, but I just found that I either wanted to be hitting a blade or be hitting the AP2. There's a reason the AP2 is so popular on tour - the 3/4/5/6 irons are pretty sweet. Easy to hit, feel great, love the trajectory... Just a great all-around iron.

Last week I got to meet the Callaway Tour Rep here in DC. He brought a bag of shafts to try on a Trackman - we tried to total them up and lost track, but there was at least $75,000 of shafts there. Graphite Design just released a follow-up to the Tour AD DI called the BB (Blue Bullet) that is just insanely straight. I was like "please get me one immediately" - dude was like, sure - that'll be $400 + Titleist sleeve... I was like, "uhhhh, never mind. I'm good." Then again there were some Matrix Oziks in there that cost at least twice that. Crazy stuff.
 
A buddy of mine is thinking about going pro so he has some connections. I actually had a set of the old AP2's that I played for the past 2 years, loved the long irons but the short irons I just overspun and hit too high. He hooked me on the new set and I just about broke even ditching the old irons on ebay.

I know a CB/MB combo seems to make more sense, but for me it didn't. The distances on the AP2's are more consistent for me - the CB's seem to juice the ball an extra 10 yards when you catch them pure. I suppose if you're awesome and hit pure 6 irons on every swing like Bill Haas that's fine, but I just found that I either wanted to be hitting a blade or be hitting the AP2. There's a reason the AP2 is so popular on tour - the 3/4/5/6 irons are pretty sweet. Easy to hit, feel great, love the trajectory... Just a great all-around iron.

Last week I got to meet the Callaway Tour Rep here in DC. He brought a bag of shafts to try on a Trackman - we tried to total them up and lost track, but there was at least $75,000 of shafts there. Graphite Design just released a follow-up to the Tour AD DI called the BB (Blue Bullet) that is just insanely straight. I was like "please get me one immediately" - dude was like, sure - that'll be $400 + Titleist sleeve... I was like, "uhhhh, never mind. I'm good." Then again there were some Matrix Oziks in there that cost at least twice that. Crazy stuff.

I still play the UST Black and Gold shaft that a couple tour players still use as well in my 905R. Love that thing. I don't even need an X flex because it's so tip stiff. How much distance am I losing by not upgrading to a newer clubhead?

My friend who pays on the egolf tour is sponsored by Titleist and uses the new Mitsubishi Diamana shafts and says they are the straightest he's ever hit by far.
 
The V2? That's an all-time great shaft, played it for years. I think Stricker and Adam Scott still have it play, or only switched recently. Tip is stiff as hell - feels like a steel shaft.

The main improvement (for long hitters) since that shaft is dispersion and feel. I liked the V2 but it is pretty boardy. The Diamana White (New version is called the A'hina) is nice, and the Tour AD DI is great but expensive. The Fubuki line is also very popular (think Mickelson's still playing it) - most of those shafts are tip stiff and med-high launch with reduced spin. The big thing now is high and flat with no sidespin.

I swear I could put a 20 yard cut swing on that Tour AD BB I hit and it would fade maybe 5 yards.

But in comparison to the V2, for a 115mph swing or so... I don't think you're looking at huge gains - but that depends on how consistent you are with your current setup. I'm 6'2" and play everything 2 degrees up - it was a much bigger deal for me to finally be able to bend a driver and 3 wood upright 2 degrees while still keeping the face square than anything else. In case you're curious, I settled on the A'hina tipped 1" in my 910D3. I was so sick of hitting drives OB 2 years ago I just about quit golf. Now driving the ball is back to being the best part of my game.
 
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I'm almost positive I'm 2 degrees up as well. Maybe just one on my newer irons. I'm 6'1". I was actually talking about the club face rather than the shaft in terms of added distance. I might have to tinker with the lie angle on some of the new ones to see how much that helps, but I was just talking about the hotness of the face itself.
 
I practiced with a belly putter (left hand low) a little bit yesterday...distance control is bad but at least I'm putting the ball on the line I want.

How can I improve my irons?
I've had Calloway Steelhead X-14 irons (steel staft) for 10 years. Very forgiving. I took lessons and now I am pinching the ball well and hitting it farther (9 iron goes 150+). For whatever reason I tend to hit the ball thin. My main issue is that by learning to move my wrists in front of the ball and pinch, I'm either flipping my wrists at impact (lower ball flight, hips turn quickly and belt buckle faces target, ball starts at the target but trickles left with a draw), or I'm blocking it to the right (high ball flight, hips 'slide' as opposed to turn). I'm not even sure I can fade/slice the ball if I tried. Any drills I can practice on the range? I'd rather not purchase new irons/shafts but if you think this will significantly help my game then I'm all ears.
 
I'm almost positive I'm 2 degrees up as well. Maybe just one on my newer irons. I'm 6'1". I was actually talking about the club face rather than the shaft in terms of added distance. I might have to tinker with the lie angle on some of the new ones to see how much that helps, but I was just talking about the hotness of the face itself.

Yeah, sorry - I didn't explain that well enough. What I meant was that after they locked out the COR you pretty much had a known quantity as far as what smash factor you can achieve based on the head alone. I'm not sure I've hit anything longer than the Titleist LFE based on just the head.

Since the 905R it's shafts and adjustable hosels/weights that have really changed. (This is just my opinion, I'm sure clubmakers will tell you otherwise)
 
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