My wife and I went about 5 years ago. We were there for 9 days and hit Arenal, Monteverde and Samara.
Arenal is a must-do. We stayed
here and liked it. Very simple rooms, not fancy. Great hikes. I think it is as close as you can stay to the volcano.
In the Arenal/La Fortuna are, we:
-Took a canyoning tour with
Desafio. Holy shit it was awesome. Basically hiking through a jungle and rappelling down waterfalls. No experience necessary. My favorite part of the trip.
-Did a zip line tour. Cool, but kind of lackluster after the canyoning.
-Went to
Eco Termales hot springs. Liked this a lot. Not as touristy as the other hot springs, supposedly.
We then drove around Arenal to get to Monteverde. Big mistake. Lots of unpaved roads with no road signs, and we had no GPS. Wife was carsick for two days after we arrived. Would do jeep-boat-jeep if we had it to do over. In Monteverde, we:
-Took a skywalk tour. Meh.
-Hiked in the cloud forest. Also meh.
-Hung out around town. Awesome.
-Hung out in our room watching the rain. Also awesome. The storms would last for only an hour or so, but it was the most intense rain I had ever seen. A little bit of thunder, no lightning. Crazy.
We then drove to Samara, a quiet beach town. Long drive, especially when mudslides cover the road. In Samara, we:
-Stayed
here. Not much to the cabanas, but the owners/hosts were great. Spent most of our time just hanging out with them.
-Took surfing lessons.
-Relaxed.
I'd probably skip Monteverde if I went back, or at least plan a longer trip. Might skip Samara and hit Manuel Antonio.
The wildlife was great, especially the coatimundi (aka "snookum bears"). We also ran across a tame
margay while hiking in Arenal. It followed us for an hour or so, and would let us pick it up.
CR food leaves something to be desired...