Got back last weekend after 9 nights in Italy. Highlights of trip are:
Flew into Rome and picked up rental car and drove north about 90 minutes to small hill town of Orvieto in the Umbria region. Incredible small town with lots of cool stuff and almost no tourists at least not from the US. We stayed at a wine resort about a mile from town that was adults only so not crying whining kids which was nice. The resort was very cool and we would stay there again. We even at dinner there the first night we were so tired from the flight and didn't feel like going into town.
When we did go into town the next day we were exchanging some dollars for euros at a local bank and ran into an American that was there doing some business. He pointed us to the trattoria below for lunch and even made a reservation there for us. We were the only gringos in the joint but were able to communicate. I can't recommend this place high enough.
We also made a stop at the Tenuta Le Velette
https://www.tenutalevelette.com/en/homepage/ winery. Some of the best white wine in Italy is made here so of course after tasting we ordered 2 cases.
We headed to Tuscany for 4 nights after this and stayed about 2 miles outside of Sienna at this place below. It wasn't an agritourisma but it was really nice and the food was tremendous as we got lazy after driving all over Pienza, Montepulsiano, Montelcino, etc. We went into Sienna a couple of times but it was really crowded which I don't remember it being 7 years ago but times change. The gelato was still amazing though as was the pizza. The 2 highlights from being out in the country were a half day stay in Pienza which has to be the coolest small town in Tuscany. The views of the mountains in the distance and the lush landscape were killer. The other highlight was the Santa Guilia winery in Montelcino. Me and my crew agreed this was the best part of the trip. The guide at the winery was very intelligent (a Canadian who immigrated over there) and funny and the brunello and food (had the zero kilometer lunch with all food coming from within a mile of winery) were amazing. I found this place on an old Rick Steves episode from some 10 years back. Of course we ordered a case of wine and olive oil as well.
Ca Bianca is a typical manor of the 1600s in Siena located a few steps from Siena. Is in the heart of the Tuscany, lies a valley surrounded by the silver tones of olive trees, adorned by the green of the fields of wheat.
www.cabiancasiena.com
After the 6 nights in small towns in Umbria and Tuscany we headed to Rome. We turned in the car and stayed in the Monti neighborhood of Rome at the Argentina hotel. The first thing I noticed about having not been there in 22 years was the population increase. After looking it up there has been a 500K increase in last 20 years. Despite that it was a good visit. We did an in depth tour of the Pantheon (amazing structure) and the Colosseum. That night my wife had set up a 4 hour food tour which turned out to be incredible and I highly recommend.
Want to taste the very best of Rome’s local food and wine? This delicious walking tour through the trendy Trastevere neighborhood will show you everything that’s great about the food of Rome. Join your passionate foodie guide for an evening of street food, wine, and local meats and cheeses, then...
theromanguy.com
We stopped here at the Peroni house for some beers and to get away from the crowds as it was Liberation Day that Thursday the 25th.
http://www.anticabirreriaperoni.it/
We were reffered by a hotel clerk to Osteria de Fortunata which ironically thatguy2016 on the boards had recommended for lunch 1 day and ended up eating there again it was so good.
https://www.osteriadafortunata.it/en/ We also had a nice dinner at Renoto
https://renatoeluisa.it/
I know I am kind of rambling but all in all it was a great stay at the perfect time of year. It was slightly cool (50's and 60's) and rained 1 day in Florence but all in all I prefer this to summer weather.
Ciao!
www.osteriadafortunata.it
