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New Car Buying Advice?

1. Don't buy new. Buying a model year or two older will save you serious cash.
2. If you do buy new, use the internet and email to your advantage. Get pre-approved for financing. Email a bunch of dealerships and ask for their offers. Either take the lowest offer, or use it to negotiate with the dealership you want to buy from. Give them a take-it-or-leave it cash offer. If they don't take it, be prepared to actually leave.
3. Don't buy new.
 
why would you want to buy new rather than used? For just a commuter car you can pick up a focus with less than 30,000 miles at the higher trim levels for well under $20k. I just ran this search on Edmunds and there is plenty of inventory out there. http://www.edmunds.com/inventory/used/srp.html?no_popup=true&radius=100&zip=27401&model=Ford%7CFocus+Sedan&mileage=*+TO+30000&trim=SEL&sort=score%7Cdesc&currentpage=1

Cars are so reliable now there is almost no reason to pay the premium for a new car unless you truly cannot find what you want used. I did just buy a new van for my wife, but only because it is almost impossible to find a low mileage minivan in decent condition, people and their kids and dogs beat the shit out of those things (as my wife is doing with hers).
 
Not on the highway it isn't.

FWIW..at 15k highway miles per year and at $6.50 per gallon, the Civic Hybrid's 44 mpg will save about $300 per year versus the regular Civic's 39 mpg. The Hybrid is also not comparably equipped to the EX and the difference is actually $3.5k ($20.8 versus $24.4).

Well, I can only speak from my experience having owned one for 5 years. The proof is in the mileage owners report on fueleconomy.gov. Real use data. My driving breakdown was 70/30 highway/city and I averaged 41- which was based on setting cruise control at 70 to and from the office. I have never met a conventional Civic owner who did that and got 39. Again, I can only speak as an owner who followed Honda's models for several years for this very reason.

As to 2&2's point, I wouldn't call it "duped." In my case, the car performed exactly as I expected. Given your political bent, your skepticism is hardly surprising; I'm surprised you're not advocating all vehicles have non-catalytic #2 diesels with oil-leaking turbos. What a lot of HCH owners grew pissed about was Honda's penchant for changing software after the car was on the road. The requirements in the warranties on the hybrid systems were going to force them into some expensive repairs before the warranties expired. Of course, there isn't a single car manufacturer who doesn't use this same strategy. But when you're talking about a large, expensive battery, Honda decided to "patch" things with a software update. Especially since it was new technology. Unfortunately, as the vast majority of owners discovered, Honda's patch directly eliminated or decreased a lot of the MPG-saving measures the car originally had.
 
Well, I can only speak from my experience having owned one for 5 years. The proof is in the mileage owners report on fueleconomy.gov. Real use data. My driving breakdown was 70/30 highway/city and I averaged 41- which was based on setting cruise control at 70 to and from the office. I have never met a conventional Civic owner who did that and got 39. Again, I can only speak as an owner who followed Honda's models for several years for this very reason.

As to 2&2's point, I wouldn't call it "duped." In my case, the car performed exactly as I expected. Given your political bent, your skepticism is hardly surprising; I'm surprised you're not advocating all vehicles have non-catalytic #2 diesels with oil-leaking turbos. What a lot of HCH owners grew pissed about was Honda's penchant for changing software after the car was on the road. The requirements in the warranties on the hybrid systems were going to force them into some expensive repairs before the warranties expired. Of course, there isn't a single car manufacturer who doesn't use this same strategy. But when you're talking about a large, expensive battery, Honda decided to "patch" things with a software update. Especially since it was new technology. Unfortunately, as the vast majority of owners discovered, Honda's patch directly eliminated or decreased a lot of the MPG-saving measures the car originally had.

First, we were discussing an all highway hypothetical. Agree that in mixed commuted the Hybrid/Non-Hybrid distinction will become larger. At $4.00 per gallon (above current prices, but not a doomsday prediction), using combined numbers (44 versus 32), the fuel economy improvement is worth just over $500 more per year. That savings in running cost will cost you $3.5k upfront, not to mention some equipment (off the top of my head, the big item is a sunroof). And, with the non-Hybrid model, you always have the option of the LX, which comes with everything you actually need and is $2.5k cheaper than the EX. Now you're talking about $6.5k. If driving a Hybrid makes you feel good then so be it, but I doubt you're saving much money and if you are then you are likely the exception not the norm.

My political bent? Do tell what my political bent is. For one I can pretty much promise you that my "footprint" is smaller than yours. I live in a small apartment, drive little, and when I do drive it's a well maintained 2004 Subaru. Doesn't get great gas mileage, but most cars with 186k are junked / totaled / poorly maintained, all of which are much worse for the environment than driving a car that only gets 25 mpg. And when my car finally does go to the graveyard it won't have massive battery leaking god knows what into the junkyard soil.
 
I think he was talking about my political bent. I actually like the scientific concept of hybrids a lot. What I don't like is how, for the most part, they look like rolling vulvas and are marketed with flowery pastels and the the eclectic-indie-hipster-singer/songwriter du jour. You can be another room when the ad comes on TV and know immediately that the commercial is for either a hybrid, Apple, or The Gap.
 
Currently considering the Camry Hybrid. Some good deals floating around out there and you will have no problem getting one under $30k. 42 around town 40 on the Hwy. I have asked two friends who own one and both said they are getting the mileage. I drive mostly in the city and my Avalon only gets about 18-19 and I buy about two tanks a month, so I think the yearly savings for me in gas would be about $600-$800, so it will be a few years to get back the initial investment. Are there still tax breaks for going Hybrid?

Black Camry XLE $25 (Black)
http://www.ricetoyota.com/vehicle-d...mry-xle-hybrid-sedan-greensboro-nc-id-4151070
 
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Anyone shitting on buying a new car hasn't experienced getting a great deal under invoice with 0% financing and some incentives tacked on. Plus you can usually order exactly what you want.

It's usually more cost effective to buy used - especially if you're not financing the car - but run through a total cost of ownership before just writing off buying new.
 
I think he was talking about my political bent. I actually like the scientific concept of hybrids a lot. What I don't like is how, for the most part, they look like rolling vulvas and are marketed with flowery pastels and the the eclectic-indie-hipster-singer/songwriter du jour. You can be another room when the ad comes on TV and know immediately that the commercial is for either a hybrid, Apple, or The Gap.

TBR: see above. I was refering to 2&2. And this post I definitely agree with. Again, I shopped Honda models and looking at the options that they had, the price difference for the one I bought versus non-HCH models was less than $2000. It's moot to keep arguing it: I researched the cars and options for over 6 months.

All this said, I now drive a BMW. And I have no intentions of ever buying any other make of car ever again, winning the lottery notwithstanding.
 
Ah, I see the reference, my mistake.

Also, love the whole "I know more than you so argument over" response. Excellent.
 
I always buy used cars, but I think buying new can be almost as cost-effective if you do it right. Get a good deal on it (which may require buying a model that isn't selling well) and most importantly drive it for a looong time. If you upgrade your car every few years you will spend a ton of money on cars.
 
Ah, I see the reference, my mistake.

Also, love the whole "I know more than you so argument over" response. Excellent.

Actually, it's more "this is the actual experience I went through and there's no changing that" response. Hence the "moot" part. I'm quite, quite certain other people paid more, maybe less, than I did for what I got.

And lol @ the tags.
 
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Anyone shitting on buying a new car hasn't experienced getting a great deal under invoice with 0% financing and some incentives tacked on. Plus you can usually order exactly what you want.

It's usually more cost effective to buy used - especially if you're not financing the car - but run through a total cost of ownership before just writing off buying new.

Like most things, it's a tradeoff. Getting a good deal on a new car is, in my experience, not that easy, and as you referenced to get a REALLY good deal you usually have to settle for something less than ideal. For example when we bought the new minivan we got a good deal, because it was the last 2012 Sienna of that trim level in the whole western half of the state and is an unpopular color. I can live with that because of the deal. On the other hand, looking at that list of used Focuses (Focii?) that I posted, you can pick from many, many colors and trim levels and options, and get a higher trim level for the same or less money than buying new. With most makes these days, there isn't a bit of difference between a car with 0 miles and a car with 20,000 miles. Every transaction is different and new does sometimes make sense, but IMO in the large majority of situations you come out ahead buying used.
 
I just bought a new 2013 Honda CR-V EX AWD Saturday. MSRP was $26,975 but invoice was like $24,500 or so. The dealership had some kind of special going on and offered it to me for $23,800. Everything I had seen from Consumer Reports service and True Car was saying $24,800 or so was a great price so I went with it. I had a 2001 Toyota Corolla with 114,000 miles on it and traded. I know the dealer still made some money but I think I got a great deal.

I looked for some used cars like the CR-V and only saw savings of $1,000 or so with a ton of miles on it so I opted for new. Count me in as one of those who buys new. I bought the Corolla new with my parents' help and kept it for 12 years. I plan to do the same with my new car.
 
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1. Don't buy new. Buying a model year or two older will save you serious cash.
2. If you do buy new, use the internet and email to your advantage. Get pre-approved for financing. Email a bunch of dealerships and ask for their offers. Either take the lowest offer, or use it to negotiate with the dealership you want to buy from. Give them a take-it-or-leave it cash offer. If they don't take it, be prepared to actually leave.
3. Don't buy new.

If I can get a 0% finance deal and think I am not getting screwed, I plan to buy new. My father in law is in the used car biz and says most of them are in pretty good shape but even the pros miss on some things on cars they buy. We really like the Focus ST but Ford has only been making it for 8 months now and there are hardly any used around. Its really a sports car in a Focus body. That said, if my wife's new gig is 30-40 miles away that'll kill this plan and we'll have to go with something gas friendly like a Focus SE/Titanium or the afore mentioned Prius. Does anyone have a Mini by any chance?
 
0% finance, if available on the car you want, is definitely something that can change the calculus of new vs. used.
 
1. Don't buy new. Buying a model year or two older will save you serious cash.
2. If you do buy new, use the internet and email to your advantage. Get pre-approved for financing. Email a bunch of dealerships and ask for their offers. Either take the lowest offer, or use it to negotiate with the dealership you want to buy from. Give them a take-it-or-leave it cash offer. If they don't take it, be prepared to actually leave.
3. Don't buy new.

This is what I do. Always buy 1 year earlier model. Worked out so far...
 
0% finance, if available on the car you want, is definitely something that can change the calculus of new vs. used.

Eh, it's rarely true 0% financing. Usually it is 0% financing or $X cash back, such that X is the cost of the financing.

And "dealer invoice" as the desired target is the biggest racket going right now. The dealer's invoice usually has almost nothing to do with how much the dealership actually pays for the car when viewed in light of their entire floorplan financing credits, other than a starting point for their calculations. It is a pure smokescreen. Pay what you think is a fair price for the car and get on with your life. At the end of the day, everyone thinks they got a good price. I've rarely heard anyone say "I got ripped on that deal."
 
New may actually be preferable in today's environment. An abundance of cash back offers, zero-to-low-interest offers, and a high demand for used cars has made a new car investment a good one again. Hyundai and others now feature 100K mile warranties as well.
 
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