Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

[birdman]

Not sure if you're in Forsyth Co, but I used these guys.

Radon Testing and Mitigation in Greensboro, NC | The Radon Specialist

The Radon Specialist offers professional radon testing and mitigation services to residential and commercial clients throughout Greensboro, NC.

theradonspecialist.com

I’m 8 hours and 13 minutes south of Forsyth County. But that’s for the tip!

My wife said her boss and coworker used this company, but I’m thinking we need another estimate.

 

[Deaconblue]

I would certainly get another test. Use a different company. AARST web site has a list of testing companies and EPA does as well.

 

[Kory]

This is good info. I really appreciate it. The sample was taken in the center of the house in our living room area. I think it was a 2-day sample. A second test is maybe warranted. I’m also going to get a second estimate.

They did ours in the basement, and nobody could be in the house for 24 hours

 

[birdman]

I would certainly get another test. Use a different company. AARST web site has a list of testing companies and EPA does as well.

We did the test ourselves. It was free kit from the county public health agency.

 

[Deaconblue]

We did the test ourselves. It was free kit from the county public health agency.

Question: Do you have granite countertops in kitchen, bath or elsewhere?

USEPA radon website:

Radon | US EPA

Exposure to radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking. Radon is a colorless, odorless, tasteless and invisible gas produced by the decay of naturally occurring uranium in soil and water.

www.epa.gov

Lots of info at the Florida Health Department Radon website:

Radon Highlights | Florida Department of Health

Florida Department of Health Radon Program. Information on radon testing, certification, health effects, mandatory radon testing, radon mitigation

www.floridahealth.gov

There will be a lot of overlap of the info on the two sites. State radon programs are tied to USEPA radon program.

County Health distributes test kits. However, highly likely they use either a state laboratory or a commercial laboratory to do the analysis. If they don't use a certified laboratory, the results are suspect. So make sure the test sample (probably charcoal bag or canister) was analyzed properly. The Health department should be willing to share identity of their contractor and verify that the lab is certified for radon.

Other info on the site in the link talks about remediation techniques and sources of indoor radon.

80 - 90% of radon lung cancers occur in individuals who smoke. There is a lot of synergy between radon and cigarette smoke for producing lung cancer.

 

[birdman]

Question: Do you have granite countertops in kitchen, bath or elsewhere?

USEPA radon website:

Radon | US EPA

Exposure to radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer after smoking. Radon is a colorless, odorless, tasteless and invisible gas produced by the decay of naturally occurring uranium in soil and water.

www.epa.gov

Lots of info at the Florida Health Department Radon website:

Radon Highlights | Florida Department of Health

Florida Department of Health Radon Program. Information on radon testing, certification, health effects, mandatory radon testing, radon mitigation

www.floridahealth.gov

There will be a lot of overlap of the info on the two sites. State radon programs are tied to USEPA radon program.

County Health distributes test kits. However, highly likely they use either a state laboratory or a commercial laboratory to do the analysis. If they don't use a certified laboratory, the results are suspect. So make sure the test sample (probably charcoal bag or canister) was analyzed properly. The Health department should be willing to share identity of their contractor and verify that the lab is certified for radon.

Other info on the site in the link talks about remediation techniques and sources of indoor radon.

80 - 90% of radon lung cancers occur in individuals who smoke. There is a lot of synergy between radon and cigarette smoke for producing lung cancer.

It was a 3” charcoal testing canister provided by the county. The sample was tested by these guys https://rtca.com/, the Radon Testing Corporation Of America. They seem legit.

We do have granite counter tops in the kitchen and bathrooms.

I got the contact info for 4 other radon testing and mitigation companies certified by the state of Florida in my area and called them today.

 

[Deaconblue]

Yes. I agree that RTCA is legit.

You may want to do longer test, e.g. 90 day to get a better picture of the annual level. Radon does fluctuate with weather.

Sub slab ventilation won't do much if Radon is coming from the granite. Might want to contact FL Radon program people and see what they recommend for checking granite for Radon emanation.

 

[Deaconblue]

If you want to get into the weeds and some statistical discussions of the risks from radon, look for papers by Bernard L. Cohen, U of Pittsburgh; William Fields, Iowa; Jerome Puskin, USEPA. Lots of discussion about ecological studies vs. case control studies and statistical significance.

 

[birdman]

Geez...second estimate is for $6800. It looks like some PVC pipe and a fan...how TF does that cost $6800?!?!

 

[birdman]

If you want to get into the weeds and some statistical discussions of the risks from radon, look for papers by Bernard L. Cohen, U of Pittsburgh; William Fields, Iowa; Jerome Puskin, USEPA. Lots of discussion about ecological studies vs. case control studies and statistical significance.

My wife is really worked up about this and I am not sure reading her some statistics is going to settle her down. Though, being a stats nerd, I appreciate the references.

Also, I checked out county maps and we are right in the middle of the radon high risk zone, so it's possible that the granite makes it worse, it is unsurprising that we've got a problem.

 

[Deaconblue]

Bernie was a very strong advocate of the position that radon was NOT a cause of lung cancer.

 

[birdman]

Bernie was a very strong advocate of the position that radon was NOT a cause of lung cancer.

Bernie is my BOY!

 

[DeacWatcher]

My house is older (1979) and fitted with shower heads that don't have a regulator to reduce water flow so these things will knock you down (a good thing). The wife is remodeling the master and is going to take out the main shower head because of the way it looks (chicks).

Are any of the newer shower heads producing strong sprays and possibly a lot of water as well?

 

[Deaconblue]

My house is older (1979) and fitted with shower heads that don't have a regulator to reduce water flow so these things will knock you down (a good thing). The wife is remodeling the master and is going to take out the main shower head because of the way it looks (chicks).

Are any of the newer shower heads producing strong sprays and possibly a lot of water as well?

All shower heads now have flow restrictors for water saving. Some have removable ones. Manufacturers cannot tell you how to remove them. Sometimes "cleaning instructions" will give a gigantic clue. Yes, depending on the hardness of your water, shower heads can benefit from cleaning.

Different designs of the individual and collective water outlet jets produce softer or harder flows. Too many out there and too frequent changes to tell you specific ones. Try some she will put up with stylistically. Prices are all over the map, from below $10 to multiple hundreds of dollars.

 

[Deacon92]

Here is a question for the Pit. I have an oak tree beside the driveway. Roots are lifting the drive. about a 3-4 inch lift on the side closest to the tree. The tree is 30ish feet and give great shade. (huge upside in Fl).

Is there a way to repair the drive and keep the tree. 1) Hate to lose the shade and 2)would need the HOA to approve taking it down I was thinking there should be a way to lift the concrete slab for the driveway and get rid of the roots but keep the tree and the original driveway, but youtube is all about killing the tree.

 

[Deaconblue]

Here is a question for the Pit. I have an oak tree beside the driveway. Roots are lifting the drive. about a 3-4 inch lift on the side closest to the tree. The tree is 30ish feet and give great shade. (huge upside in Fl).

Is there a way to repair the drive and keep the tree. 1) Hate to lose the shade and 2)would need the HOA to approve taking it down I was thinking there should be a way to lift the concrete slab for the driveway and get rid of the roots but keep the tree and the original driveway, but youtube is all about killing the tree.

How close is the nearest part of the trunk to the driveway edge?

Is this a Live Oak you are dealing with?

How thick is your driveway concrete?

 

[Deacon92]

3-4 feet. They line the streets in the neighborhood at equal distance.

Yes

I don't know.

 

[Deaconblue]

With 3-4 inch raise, thought you might be seeing slab edge. Some driveways are only 4 inches thick. I hear you on shade in Florida. Very good to have.

There are companies that do slab jacking, that is, put jacks under a concrete slab, raise it, put a new base under and put it back down. Slab needs to be thick enough and strong enough to support itself during the jacking process without breaking. Probably would need to raise slab, remove roots, redo subslab base then lower slab.

Or

Another possible solution is to remove the raised portion of the driveway, have somebody with a stump grinder take out the offending roots and have concrete placed and finished. This will reduce the roots holding up the tree. So have it pruned to open it up so there is less leaf surface for wind to hit to push the tree over. Hurricanes can be trouble.

Or

Have a stump grinder grind out roots to make a 6 inch wide trench beside the driveway. Cut depth about 2 inches deeper than driveway slab. Grind down the raised area. Pave over whole driveway. Asphalt would be best because it is flexible. Your HOA may not approve. Also if you pave over, insure you don't have driveway higher than garage so water goes into your garage.

 

[OldGoldBeard]

I have an electrical issue I'm hoping someone (i.e. Blue) can help me with. I have a dual-toggle switch that I changed out a little while ago that has been giving me problems ever since. This switch is in the basement, and I believe both switches control lights on the outside of the house. There are multiple other switches spread across the basement that control the same lights. I checked all the other switches today to make sure they were correctly wired, and all seem to be in good order.

Here's what I'm looking at:





The wires on the left side were, as of this morning, connected to the left switch, with the 7:00 (black) wire to the black screw and the 9:00 red wire and 11:00 black wire to the brass screws. This switch did control two of four outside lights, but was contingent on another switch that controlled the same lights already being up. If that switch was not turned on, this switch did nothing.

The wires on the right side were connected to the right switch, with the 5:00 black wire on the black screw and the 3:00 red wire and 1:00 black wire on the brass screws. This switch was not doing anything before I unhooked it. I believe it's supposed to control a different one or two of the outside lights, but am not sure about it.

I tested the wires with a multimeter, and none of the three wires on the left side (7:00, 9:00, 11:00) are ever hot, no matter what I do. Likewise, the black wire at 1:00 is never hot. The 3:00 red wire and the 5:00 black wire alternate being hot; if another switch in the same room (which controls one of the outside lights) is on, the red wire is hot. If it's off, the black wire is hot.

How do I need to hook these back up, or is it time to call an electrician?

 

[Deaconblue]

I have an electrical issue I'm hoping someone (i.e. Blue) can help me with. I have a dual-toggle switch that I changed out a little while ago that has been giving me problems ever since. This switch is in the basement, and I believe both switches control lights on the outside of the house. There are multiple other switches spread across the basement that control the same lights. I checked all the other switches today to make sure they were correctly wired, and all seem to be in good order.

Here's what I'm looking at:


View attachment 4170


The wires on the left side were, as of this morning, connected to the left switch, with the 7:00 (black) wire to the black screw and the 9:00 red wire and 11:00 black wire to the brass screws. This switch did control two of four outside lights, but was contingent on another switch that controlled the same lights already being up. If that switch was not turned on, this switch did nothing.

The wires on the right side were connected to the right switch, with the 5:00 black wire on the black screw and the 3:00 red wire and 1:00 black wire on the brass screws. This switch was not doing anything before I unhooked it. I believe it's supposed to control a different one or two of the outside lights, but am not sure about it.

I tested the wires with a multimeter, and none of the three wires on the left side (7:00, 9:00, 11:00) are ever hot, no matter what I do. Likewise, the black wire at 1:00 is never hot. The 3:00 red wire and the 5:00 black wire alternate being hot; if another switch in the same room (which controls one of the outside lights) is on, the red wire is hot. If it's off, the black wire is hot.

How do I need to hook these back up, or is it time to call an electrician?

Hmm.

Did everything work before you changed the switch(es)?

What is the story of the three(?) black wires tied together in the orange and clear connector on the left side of the box?

One big puzzle for me is the statement that "There are multiple other switches spread across the basement that control the same lights."
How many is "multiple?"

Four way switches do exist.

There are two general ways switches are wired to lights.

1. The power comes from source to switch and then to light.

2. Power goes to light fixture box and wire goes from there to switch and back to the light.

When wiring three way switches, "travelers" (typically red wires, but sometimes other colors) connect the switches so power is available to turn on the lights from either switch.

With three way switches, one is "master" and one is slave. The master is the one that has the power come to it first, whether situation is #1 or #2 above. Slaves are wired differently depending on the situation.