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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

There is some grade. No doubt. But by western nc standards it's not that sloped. And there's a lot of grading that's been done. Yes, it's not central NC
When evaluating a yard for potential erosion issues, the correct comparator is a properly installed pool table. Compared to a pool table, how much slope does your yard have?

Speed of raindrops rolling down hill and their ability to carry away soil is determined by absolute slope, measured from perfectly flat. Not "relative slope" compared to neighbors yards.
 
When evaluating a yard for potential erosion issues, the correct comparator is a properly installed pool table. Compared to a pool table, how much slope does your yard have?

Speed of raindrops rolling down hill and their ability to carry away soil is determined by absolute slope, measured from perfectly flat. Not "relative slope" compared to neighbors yards.

Good point! I think something needs to happen. But I'm not sure exactly what. I'll call the extension office tomorrow
 
This is where you find your local Agriculture Extension Agent. North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service. Run by NC State for the US Department of Agriculture. They provide info on growing stuff, including turf grasses, in your area.

What a resource! I called this morning and after about ten minutes I felt armed with all the information I needed. Thanks for the recommendation
 
Just went on vacation for 10 days... last thing I did before leaving for the airport was turn the water off because of this thread. Sleeping easier now.
It’s good to know that my existence can serve as a warning to others. :)
 
Well yesterday's rainy afternoon found me swapping out a single light switch for a pair of three way switches. As with most electrical projects, the difficult part was running the three conductor cable from the existing switch box to the added switch box.

Because the power went to the light fixture and only the hot (black wire) went to the switch box ( no longer allowed under current National Electric Code), the wiring for the three way switches was a little different. Just have to be careful to attach the correct traveler wire to the proper screw on the switch.

It worked. No circuit breakers were harmed by the project.
Have you ever added a light switch to a circuit? The previous owner of our property didn’t put any switches in the barn but instead used the circuit breaker to turn stuff on and off. So, to turn on fans or any lights, we’ve got flip the breaker. It’s a bit bizarre. Anyway we got a couple quotes from electricians to install a bank of switches but they were super expensive, I thought. So do you have any good resources or you tube channels for that kind of thing? I’ve dabbled in electrical stuff before, replacing outlets, installing new light fixtures, etc., but this seems a little more complicated. Is it risky? Should I just pay the professional?
 
Have you ever added a light switch to a circuit? The previous owner of our property didn’t put any switches in the barn but instead used the circuit breaker to turn stuff on and off. So, to turn on fans or any lights, we’ve got flip the breaker. It’s a bit bizarre. Anyway we got a couple quotes from electricians to install a bank of switches but they were super expensive, I thought. So do you have any good resources or you tube channels for that kind of thing? I’ve dabbled in electrical stuff before, replacing outlets, installing new light fixtures, etc., but this seems a little more complicated. Is it risky? Should I just pay the professional?
Adding switches to existing light circuits isn't that hard. It isnt that complicated. Nor is it dangerous. If you have done the things you say and feel OK, then adding switches should be a doable project.

In a barn it should be pretty easy because all the wiring should be in the open instead of inside walls. Running wire is usually the biggest pain. You need wire from the new switch to the light that is the first one powered from the breaker, if you want all the lights controlled by the same switch. If you want multiple switches each controlling a single light, you need a wire from each light fixture to the new switch. Don't forget to properly fasten the wire with staples or other proper fasteners. Make sure you leave enough wire hanging out of the box to legally make connections.

The following assumes you simply want convenient switch(es) to use instead of going to the breaker box.

Use the same gauge wire as the existing (probably 14 or 12) two wire with ground. Disconnect the black (hot) wire that comes from the breaker from the light fixture. Connect the black wire in the new cable coming from the new switch to the light fixture. Connect the black wire from the breaker box to the white wire in the new cable. Put black electrical tape over some of the white wire insulation in the fixture box to identify it has "hot." Use a wire nut or one of the newer splice connectors to make this connection. Connect the ground (bare) wire from the new cable to the rest of the grounds.

In the switch box, connect the ground to the ground terminal on the switch, and the black to one terminal. Wrap at least some of the white insulation with black electrical tape to signify "hot," then connect it to the other switch terminal.

You should have everything connected.
Wikihow has good stuff. Family handyman and gelighting are two more. There are others. Some have better pictures.

If you want to break up multiple lights that are all on the same breaker, that can be done. Also, this wiring can be done with three way switches so the light can be controlled from two locations. Generly the same process. Just more wires and more connections.
 
Well, garages aren't that permanent. At 7:30 this morning there was a two car garage at the house across the street from my Dad's place. As of this posting, the last parts of it are being put into a rolloff construction waste container. Garage this morning. Container of waste before noon.

Im sure the neighbors are wondering, "what's next?"
 
And now the back porch has joined the garage in the dumpster.
 
Anyone done a bathroom reno lately? I have a neighbor who runs a build/design company, and they've done great work for us in the past. They are high end, but prices had seemed reasonable to me. I asked him to give me an estimate for a full gut bathroom renovation. It's a guest bath, so not particular big. But everything out, replace the tub with a shower, all new subfloor, tile, vanity, etc. He quoted me $70k, which seems way high to me? Almost $10k just for demo and haul away?
Found this from Angi, aka Angi's list:

Homeowners typically spend between $6,000 and $15,000 to remodel their bathrooms, as reported in the Angi Pricing Guide. And the average project falls around $10,000. Of course, mid-range to upscale bathroom remodels can cost anywhere from $20,000 to $60,000 or more.
 
$750 to install a new exterior door, storm door, threshold, trim, door jamb & frame.

Is that reasonable? First time home owners flying blind
 
$750 to install a new exterior door, storm door, threshold, trim, door jamb & frame.

Is that reasonable? First time home owners flying blind
Pretty in the ballpark. You can look up Home Depot or Lowes or Menards installation prices on their web sites. Gets you a starting place for lots of stuff. Pick whichever one is in your area.

If that price includes the doors, you are getting a steal. Or doors that won't stop a fly.
 
We keep the house at 65° during the day. This evening we put a blanket up in front of the stairwell that leads to the door and put a thermometer in there. 56° as that door lets in so much air.
 
We keep the house at 65° during the day. This evening we put a blanket up in front of the stairwell that leads to the door and put a thermometer in there. 56° as that door lets in so much air.
Sometimes a new door will pay for itself pretty quickly in the form of reduced heating and cooling bills. Get a well insulated door, if possible.

A properly installed door set should have noticeable air compression when one door is closed and you go to close the other. They should close easily when the other door is open.

The air compression resistance is an easy way to know your doors are properly sealing against air leakage.
 
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