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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

RollTheQuad06 said:
my shower/tub is draining slowly, probably due to hair. I'm going to buy a snake.

think I'd be okay with this short $9 version: http://www.amazon.com/FlexiSnake-Drain-Millipede-Hair-Cleaning/dp/B00871R9Z8/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

or should I get a $25 more heavy duty looking thing?: http://www.amazon.com/General-Cleaners-R-25SM-4-Inch-25-Feet/dp/B003NFO528/ref=sr_1_1

Or does anyone have other recommendations?
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Just pull the drain plug out and use a pair of old scissors to cut away the hair, and unwind a metal clothes hanger to fish out any clogs below the drain. That has always worked for me. Wear a mask/bandana and gloves.
 
There's a liquid plumer thing that has the short plastic snake like LK showed with it. I got that and you snake it, apply the liquid plumer stuff and that seems to work like a champ. like 6-8 bucks. You may break it up with the snake but the liquid stuff helps too IMHO

http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/liquid-plumr-pro-strength-double-impact%2c-snake-%2b-gel-system/ID=prod6090613-product?ext=gooHousehold_PLA_Drain_ampersand_Septic_Care_prod6090613_pla&adtype={adtype}&kpid=prod6090613&sst=5b95938e-d1bd-9ec9-a370-0000672c3e2e
 
You really should try to get the hair out first. Usually isn't very far to reach, so one of the short drain snakes or as noted above, even a bent wire coat hangar will work. The key is to have something long enough to reach down the pipe far enough to go through the trap. That is usually where the hair/soap/shampoo clog begins. Don't use the drain liquid until you have really put some effort into removing the clog. Otherwise you can make a bad situation worse. Sometimes those thick liquid drain openers just add their caustic self on to the clog. Very bad if this happens.
 
thanks for the thoughts - I got a lot of hair and gunk out of both the sink and tub with the little plastic toothed thing like LK linked. The sink is draining wonderfully now, and I was able to feed a lot of the stick into the pipe multiple times. However the tub I need to work at some more. It seemed like straight down was all metal and I had to feed the stick at almost a 90 degree angle for it to go anywhere and could only get it like 6 inches or so. I got a bunch of blockage out but my shower this morning still didn't drain well.

I'll try the plastic thing again from other angles before going for the chemical cleaners. I was afraid it would get stuck on something and break in there, and then having a piece of toothed plastic stuck in the pipe would definitely be problematic.
 
You can try filling up the tub a bit with water and use a plunger on the tub drain. It's easy and works well for me. Make sure to stuff a wet washcloth in any overflow drain higher in the tub first, otherwise you won't get suction.
 
faxmachineanthem said:
You can try filling up the tub a bit with water and use a plunger on the tub drain. It's easy and works well for me. Make sure to stuff a wet washcloth in any overflow drain higher in the tub first, otherwise you won't get suction.
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Ha, this is what I always do when the shower in the house I'm currently renting gets stopped up. The plastic snake did absolutely nothing for me, and so one day I tried the plunger on a whim and it worked after going at it for about 10 minutes.
 
When I lived in my condo we had a terrible time with clogs. The snake things never did jack, because a lot of times the clog was so far away that i couldn't reach. Had a plumber come in and I think he stretched his 30 foot snake to the very end, and what he pulled out was absolutely horrifying.
 
$385 deal on Angie's List up here in NoVA for installation of 4 recessed lights, doesn't include new circuitry or drywall repair. Good price? Living room already has 4 light fixtures that could be replaced.
 
Those new LED recessed lights are like $30 now and they use virtually no energy. Something like $4 for an entire year. If you have any DIY skills you can install them where another light already exists. So no, $385 doesn't seem like a deal to me.
 
bnlforever said:
Those new LED recessed lights are like $30 now and they use virtually no energy. Something like $4 for an entire year. If you have any DIY skills you can install them where another light already exists. So no, $385 doesn't seem like a deal to me.
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Just to clarify, I don't have recessed lighting currently, we have ceiling mounted fixtures.
 
Basic LED remodel recessed lights are around $40 retail, including bulb. They can run over $100. What are you getting for the price? If you already have lights in the ceiling and the electrician is going to connect to them, and put in "standard grade" lights, $385 sounds a little high, especially if he is leaving the drywall repairs for you to deal with. If they go right where your existing lights are, its a pretty easy DIY project.

The grade of the fixtures really is the driver on good/bad deal. Higher grade fixtures, this is a good deal. Low grade fixtures maybe not so good. Recessed is not the only way to do LED. Replacement bulbs are available, but pricey.
 
Deaconblue said:
Basic LED remodel recessed lights are around $40 retail, including bulb. They can run over $100. What are you getting for the price? If you already have lights in the ceiling and the electrician is going to connect to them, and put in "standard grade" lights, $385 sounds a little high, especially if he is leaving the drywall repairs for you to deal with. If they go right where your existing lights are, its a pretty easy DIY project.

The grade of the fixtures really is the driver on good/bad deal. Higher grade fixtures, this is a good deal. Low grade fixtures maybe not so good. Recessed is not the only way to do LED. Replacement bulbs are available, but pricey.
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I'm planning on calling today to find out the details.
 
I plunged the heck out of my tub drain, got a big gurgle, and it's draining so much better now. I probably wouldn't thought of the plunger, so thanks Pit thread!
 
So, part of my finished basement flooded due to a sump pump failure.. Bridgeport Restoration came in an dried out the carpet, etc. Now, I have about a 10 by 15 area that has the carpet partially pulled up, flipped over (still attached, just a cut down the middle where the couch usually sits), and the carpet padding was removed. The carpet is fine. Just no padding... Is installing carpet padding, and then putting the carpet back something that is DIY? It seems relatively simple.. But from what I've read, it's not exactly that straightforward. I doubt a company would come in for such a small job that doesn't involve replacing with new carpet... Would like to avoid paying for new carpet/flooring if possible.
 
MACdeac said:
So, part of my finished basement flooded due to a sump pump failure. Bridgeport Restoration came in and dried out the carpet, etc. Now, I have about a 10 by 15 area that has the carpet partially pulled up, flipped over (still attached, just a cut down the middle where the couch usually sits), and the carpet padding was removed. The carpet is fine. Just no padding... Is installing carpet padding, and then putting the carpet back something that is DIY? It seems relatively simple.. But from what I've read, it's not exactly that straightforward. I doubt a company would come in for such a small job that doesn't involve replacing with new carpet... Would like to avoid paying for new carpet/flooring if possible.
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Your situation is a difficult one. Typically the padding is put down, then the carpet is attached to the tack strips on one side of the room, and then stretched using "knee kickers" to the other side, where the excess is then trimmed off. This is done in all four directions. With the cut in the middle of the room, it is going to be almost impossible to get a good tight fit. If it is just a rug on the floor then just get some new padding, lay it down, then rejoin the carpet with carpet tape. Carpet tape won't hold if you need to stretch the carpet tight to get the wrinkles out. Usually installing wall to wall is a professional job. If you can live with it less than super tight, reseam the split with carpet tape and call it good.
 
RollTheQuad06 said:
I plunged the heck out of my tub drain, got a big gurgle, and it's draining so much better now. I probably wouldn't thought of the plunger, so thanks Pit thread!
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went downstairs to the basement only to discover a wet carpet. figured I should get the dehumidifer, emptied the partial bucket into the aforementioned tub, and went back downstairs to see the water pouring from the ceiling. REALLY?!

:fuuuu:
 
RollTheQuad06 said:
went downstairs to the basement only to discover a wet carpet. figured I should get the dehumidifer, emptied the partial bucket into the aforementioned tub, and went back downstairs to see the water pouring from the ceiling. REALLY?!

:fuuuu:
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That does not sound good. If it stopped in a few minutes, it is drain line. If it keeps flowing, it is a water supply line. Sometimes drain piping is not put together very tightly, and vigorous plunging can separate a joint in the piping. Part of the ceiling that is directly under the tub drain will need to come out to allow access to the piping to make repairs. If the place you live in is older, it may have metal (chrome plated steel) drain pipes that rust and fall apart.

One time I thought I had a leak in the drain pipe from the kitchen sink. I reached down to feel if it was wet, wrapped my hand around the pipe and crushed it into a small pile of rust in my hand. Yep, I had a leaking drain line.
 
it stopped pretty quickly, so it seems to just be the drain line. The house was built in 1950, so it's kind of older. that is crazy that you crushed your pipe that way!

I have a home warranty, and called them tonight. Hope to hear from their plumber this weekend. It's my only bathroom.
 
hopefully you have a drop ceiling in your basement. It makes the entire process soooo much easier. I recently re-did my basement and it was worth the money to put in a drop ceiling and get "nice" tiles so it doesn't look like an office building.
 
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