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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

Deaconblue said:
I assume you have space in your breaker panel for some additional breakers? you may need more than one slot side by side for a 50 amp breaker.

The hard part of this is running the cable from your breaker box to the garage location where you need the 240 V power. That is probably going to be the bulk of the cost of the project.

240 V breakers are a little more expensive, and the heavier (probably 10 or 12 gauge) three wire cable is more expensive, compared to the material for a standard 120 V, 15 amp circuit.
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Yes, I scoped the panel and we have room for the breakers. One other thought: our mud room with laundry (i.e. 240v receptacle for the dryer) is adjacent to the garage. Any possibility of drawing off that line or splitting it in some way?
 
Sleepy said:
How about going the other way? We have a 220 outlet / breaker that used to be for a hot tub that we want to convert to 110.
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That you can do safely. In many instances, white and black wires give 110. You may need to swap the breaker for a smaller one that matches the amperage rating of the new 110 outlet. Your 220 breaker is probably 30 amps or bigger. Most 110 outlets are rated for 15 or 20 amps, with some specialty ones rated for 25 amps. Breaker size should be smaller than or equal to rating on the outlet.

Also, make sure the unused wire in the new system is either safely capped, and/or disconnected from any breaker in the electric panel. Bad idea to have "hot" unused wire somewhere.

Depending on your new outlet and the size of the existing wire, you may need to make a pigtail to connect the outlet to the existing wiring. Many outlets accept a limited range of wire sizes.

A "pigtail" is a short (4 to 6 inch) length of wire connected to an outlet or light fixture at one end and twisted together with one or more supply wires at the other. The connection with the existing wire is secured with a wire nut of the size appropriate for the size and number of wires connected.

Here both the white and black wires have pigtails ready to connect to the outlet.


Z
 
CantStandYa said:
Yes, I scoped the panel and we have room for the breakers. One other thought: our mud room with laundry (i.e. 240v receptacle for the dryer) is adjacent to the garage. Any possibility of drawing off that line or splitting it in some way?
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You can continue the circuit from the laundry. The caveat is the total power draw from the two outlets and the breaker size. If your new use is at a different time than when the dryer is running, shouldn't be a big issue unless the new use in the garage needs more power than your dryer. My dryer breaker is 30 amps.

Need to verify is that doing a continuation is legit per your local electrical code as well.
 
BiffTannen said:
Just change the outlet and everything will be fine.
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Connect the wrong wires and anything you plug in will die a rapid death. Could also start a fire and/or kill you. But yeah, other than that, things will be fine.

Sorta like, "other than that unfortunate incident with the gun, how was the play, Mrs. Lincoln?"
 
About to start on an interesting project. Creating a transition to allow 5 inch rain gutter to connect to 6 inch gutter. The manufacturer doesn't make a transition, so I will try to make one out of an end cap.
 
Deaconblue said:
Connect the wrong wires and anything you plug in will die a rapid death. Could also start a fire and/or kill you. But yeah, other than that, things will be fine.

Sorta like, "other than that unfortunate incident with the gun, how was the play, Mrs. Lincoln?"
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No, I'm pretty sure Biff is right here. You just have to buy one of these and swap it out. Should take 5 minutes tops.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Range-and-Dryer-Wall-Plate-White-R52-80726-00W/202059864
 
Does anyone have an idea of what it would cost to have a surveyor confirm my property boundaries? our lot is roughly rectangular, a little less than an acre but two of the boundaries are overgrown and i kinda think my neighbor's driveway is partially in my parcel
 
The survey of my current place cost $475 according to the closing docs
 
of course; the answer to "how much does this house-thing cost?" is always at least $500 and usually $1k
 
Just claim what you think is yours little increments at a time, preferably with an easily movable fence. Move it’s about two feet a week towards your neighbor, won’t know what hit them.
 
When you mow just start mowing an extra stripe or two down that side of the lot. When dude goes to mow, it’s not like he’s going to re-mow that section even if he thinks it might be his. Eventually everyone gets used to the new mower paths and it’s effectively conceded.
 
If there's a survey on record it'll cost about $200 to mark the pins.
 
Louis Gossett Jr said:
Just claim what you think is yours little increments at a time, preferably with an easily movable fence. Move it’s about two feet a week towards your neighbor, won’t know what hit them.
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06deacon said:
When you mow just start mowing an extra stripe or two down that side of the lot. When dude goes to mow, it’s not like he’s going to re-mow that section even if he thinks it might be his. Eventually everyone gets used to the new mower paths and it’s effectively conceded.
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problem is that both the border lands are heavily overgrown. i'm looking to tear out about 25 years worth of sapling/brush/weed encroachment and install a fence. one of the more obnoxious hedges seems to be entirely in my plot but i thought it was neighbors.
 
Anyone tried haggling with a concrete contractor (e.g. for a driveway expansion)? Or is the price pretty much set in stone (HEY OH)?
 
Probably should've asked for one before you bought the place
 
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