• Welcome to OGBoards 10.0, keep in mind that we will be making LOTS of changes to smooth out the experience here and make it as close as possible functionally to the old software, but feel free to drop suggestions or requests in the Tech Support subforum!

Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

YoungBuck95 said:
@Deaconblue tackling the shower faucet tonight. Would there be any benefit to just going ahead & replacing the brass stems?
Click to expand...

Not really. Stems don't wear out very fast. Lifetime measured in decades. Biggest reason would be if they show obvious deterioration. The bottom of the stem where the washer goes is the most likely place. Or if someone cheated and used a steel screw instead of a brass one to hold the faucet washer in place and it is a rusted mess you can't get out.

New washers every few years, fresh grease when you do that. Silicon faucet grease is another name for plumbers grease. About $10 should keep you supplied for a decade or two.

ETA:
If you have to shutoff all house water, fill a bucket or two with clean water before you shut water off.

If you have visible/feel able (raised) deposits on the stems from (white) lime deposits (hard water- doesn't have to be that hard) clean them up. Soak in dilute vinegar for 15 minutes, scrape with PLASTIC (not metal) scraper and extra fine steel wool - 00, 000, 0000 grades.

If you find reddish (rust colored) deposits, use rust removal product like CLR for cleanup.

Horizontal stems ( like your tub ones) are more likely to have deposits than vertical ones, like many sinks.

Rinse well with water before reassembly.
 
Last edited:
Deaconblue said:
Not really. Stems don't wear out very fast. Lifetime measured in decades. Biggest reason would be if they show obvious deterioration. The bottom of the stem where the washer goes is the most likely place. Or if someone cheated and used a steel screw instead of a brass one to hold the faucet washer in place and it is a rusted mess you can't get out.

New washers every few years, fresh grease when you do that. Silicon faucet grease is another name for plumbers grease. About $10 should keep you supplied for a decade or two.
Click to expand...
Sounds good, thanks! Here is a picture of what they look like. Gotta go get supplies after work to get them out but the left one is certainly more corroded than the right.

IMG_2421.jpeg
 
YoungBuck95 said:
Sounds good, thanks! Here is a picture of what they look like. Gotta go get supplies after work to get them out but the left one is certainly more corroded than the right.

View attachment 7813
Click to expand...

Might need loosener, like Liquid Wrench, to get the stem out. I think I see enough flats for a deep well socket to bite on. Better to use that if you can.
 
What is the move when a 1” 1/32 socket is too big and 31/32 is too small
 
YoungBuck95 said:
What is the move when a 1” 1/32 socket is too big and 31/32 is too small
Click to expand...

Where did you get 31/32 and 1-1/32 sockets? They are not common. Particularly, how do you have those two sizes and not a1 inch (32/32)?

Most socket sets go 15/16, 1 inch, 1-1/16.
 
I’ve never used them but they make these kind if universal things…

Amazon product

61AM4tX-+qL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
I would like to report temporary victory over the shower faucet. The screws that held the rubber washer on were terribly rusted and stripped. Had to peel the washer off then remove the screws with pliers. We have temporary stainless screws on until we can get to the store tomorrow for brass screws.
 
Anyone ever replaced drawer slides on kitchen drawers?

I've got some like this:
1707239517088.png

And want to upgrade to something like this if possible:
1707239608545.png
 
deacfan78 said:
Anyone ever replaced drawer slides on kitchen drawers?

I've got some like this:
View attachment 7901

And want to upgrade to something like this if possible:
View attachment 7902
Click to expand...
This is doable. Make sure you get the correct length of the new slides to fit your drawer depth and the depth of the cabinet box. Be careful to use the correct size and type of screws. You don't want screw heads interfering with the operation of the new slides. You also don't want screw tips exposed inside the drawer.

Make sure you have strong points (supports) inside the cabinet box to support the weight of the drawer, contents and leverage weight from the full extension of those new slides. When the drawer is all the way out, the far inside end of the slide is pushing UP with approximately the weight of the drawer plus contents.

Cabinet manufacturers often tailor the strong points of the cabinet to the specific slides they use. Cabinet boxes are frequently thin plywood, fiberboard or OSB with decorative high quality veneer outside and around the drawer fronts. There is usually space between the side of the drawer and the box to add vertical supports. Glue in place.

Make sure the new slides are parallel all along their length, level and also perpendicular to the cabinet face in both directions (left/right and up/down). If not, the drawer front may not sit flat against the cabinet face.

Good luck!
 
Just putting this out there so I'm covering all my bases, but I'm beginning the process of a significant addition to and renovation of my home in Winston-Salem. I've got a short list of architects that I'm going to begin reaching out to, but am open to any recommendations from the board community.
 
Last edited:
JamesSokolove said:
Just putting this out there so I'm covering all my bases, but I'm beginning the process of a significant addition to and renovation of my home in Winston-Salem. I've got a short list of architects that I'm going to begin reaching out to, but am open to any recommendations from the board community.
Click to expand...

I don't have any connections to architects in W-S. That is the correct way to go.

With the current popularity of electrically operated devices, including chargers, I would consider more electric outlets than code minimum. How many depends on the intended uses of the rooms you are adding and renovating.

If you are willing to share the intended uses of the space, I and others may have some thought about particulars that have worked and things that might have been better done differently.
 
Here's the snapshot of what we are shopping for phase 1:

1000 +/- Sq ft home addition into rear yard of home that includes a four-season room, a master bedroom, master bathroom, and also a half bathroom. Accompanying reconfiguration/redesign of outdoor spaces would be needed. We envision a 4 seasons room (would connect to existing kitchen) that serves as the central location for of all family activities (arts and crafts, games, eating, homework) with lots of natural light and higher ceilings. We want to identify and define more effective work from home space(s) within the existing home and addition. We want to improve the circulation within the home and connectivity between spaces, but also want to find a way to carve out and create private spaces for each member of the family (mainly spaces that create separation for my wife from me and the kids).

Appreciate the nudge of requesting more electic outlets than code. Already have listed wanting floor outlets in the four-seasons room to avoid cords running everywhere to devices. Some features we are wanting to incorporate into the design are a gas fireplace, walk in closet/changing room in bedroom, and large soaking tub in master bath. Wife is wanting to have a sauna as well, but I'm thinking that may be more trouble than its worth. Would also be replacing the whole house roof and all windows.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top