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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

I need to build a fence for my new house in GSO. Looking at doing something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...Boxed-Fence-Kit-162522/204146002?N=5yc1vZc3m6

How difficult would this be? Could three able bodied people do it in a day for a backyard that's probably something like 75' x 75'?

Oh yeah, looking for volunteers to be that third person. You will be handsomely compensated. TSY where you at?
 
I'd be interested to know about concrete countertops as well. We're getting new countertops and there is a place in Charlotte that my dad/stepmom recommended and their specialty is concrete countertops.
 
bmoneydeac said:
I need to build a fence for my new house in GSO. Looking at doing something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...Boxed-Fence-Kit-162522/204146002?N=5yc1vZc3m6

How difficult would this be? Could three able bodied people do it in a day for a backyard that's probably something like 75' x 75'?

Oh yeah, looking for volunteers to be that third person. You will be handsomely compensated. TSY where you at?
Click to expand...

Rent a post hole auger.

Set corner posts.

Run a tight line between them as a straight reference.

Use a line level to make sure you get the fence level.

Seal the fence after 6 months or so. Pressure treated wood will look like shit after a couple years.
 
bmoneydeac said:
I need to build a fence for my new house in GSO. Looking at doing something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...Boxed-Fence-Kit-162522/204146002?N=5yc1vZc3m6

How difficult would this be? Could three able bodied people do it in a day for a backyard that's probably something like 75' x 75'?

Oh yeah, looking for volunteers to be that third person. You will be handsomely compensated. TSY where you at?
Click to expand...

Liquid Karma said:
Rent a post hole auger.

Set corner posts.

Run a tight line between them as a straight reference.

Use a line level to make sure you get the fence level.

Seal the fence after 6 months or so. Pressure treated wood will look like shit after a couple years.
Click to expand...

My take on the fence you linked is that it comes unassembled, that is, you get two rails and 10 pickets with hardware from the specs: "Kit includes 10 - 3/4 in. moulded pickets, 2-backer rails and fasteners"Thus more work, aligning and nailing the pickets to the rail.

If your yard is 75x75 that means 300 linear feet of fence to go around. That is about 50 panels and 50 posts to install. subtract any space covered by the house. A 12 hour day is 720 minutes. 50 panels and posts in 720 minutes means one post hole dug, post installed and leveled, rails attached and 10 pickets nailed in place all in less than 15 minutes. No breaks for water, beer, food or relief.

Also doesn't allow any time to build and install gate(s).

That much fence is more like a month of full weekends, not a one day project.

Their instructions say to set the gate posts six inches deeper than the running posts. Set them at least a foot deeper, and concrete them in place. Your gate will have less tendency to sag because the gate post leans. Make sure you get some extra lumber or a steel tensioner to put a diagonal support on any gate you make.
 
FWIW I did a fence that style for a 50'x50' yard, two gates, with three friends and it took about 8 hours.
Also, power augur is great fun.
 
dot com said:
FWIW I did a fence that style for a 50'x50' yard, two gates, with three friends and it took about 8 hours.
Also, power augur is great fun.
Click to expand...

The fence talked about is 50% bigger. Also has nail it your self pickets. That is a lot of lining up.
 
The pickets aren't that bad. My posts were standard distances so once I measured the spacing out once I marked guidelines on the tape to make the rest of the sections go quicker. Did two screws top and bottom on each picket. But yeah my point was I was agreeing it's not going to be a one-day job with three people.
 
Our garage door doesn't seem to want to go down all the way. We don't really have the money to call a repair man to come fix it. When it gets around 4 inches or so to the ground, the belt seems to buckle. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Is there anything in the track that would be inhibiting its ability to go all of the way down? Also, are there any teeth missing in the belt?
 
YoungBuck95 said:
Our garage door doesn't seem to want to go down all the way. We don't really have the money to call a repair man to come fix it. When it gets around 4 inches or so to the ground, the belt seems to buckle. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Is it a center-spring roll, or does it have two side springs? If a center spring roll, the spring has to get torqued every couple of years so that it goes up and down evenly. You can try coating the spring in WD-40 and that may get it to go a little smoother and not catch, but ulitmately it may need to get torqued. If it isn't pulling evenly, then the door can bend the seams of the track out of alignment so the wheels can't roll, like TSY is saying. If you see that has happened, you can usually take a pair of vice grips and bend the track back into alignment as a temporary fix, but it will keep happening until either the spring is fixed or the alignment gets so bad that it pulls the door out of the track completely.
 
I checked and there was nothing in the track. Also, it is a double spring. It will go all the way down, buckle and come up a few inches. I tried taking it off track & lowering it myself to no success.
 
One of the springs may be worn out and getting ready to pop, so the other has all the weight and is pulling it sideways so lifting it up a little. That can be pretty dangerous, as the broken spring is like a missile when it finally snaps. If it hits you, it could seriously maim or kill you, or can put a hole in the car or wall. If you are sure there is nothing in the track and that is not the problem, you may be able to remove the springs yourself to change them out when the door is in the up position. If you can't then you probably need to get someone out to look at it.
 
2&2 Slider To Leyritz said:
One of the springs may be worn out and getting ready to pop, so the other has all the weight and is pulling it sideways so lifting it up a little. That can be pretty dangerous, as the broken spring is like a missile when it finally snaps. If it hits you, it could seriously maim or kill you, or can put a hole in the car or wall. If you are sure there is nothing in the track and that is not the problem, you may be able to remove the springs yourself to change them out when the door is in the up position. If you can't then you probably need to get someone out to look at it.
Click to expand...

So so true. Do not fuck with those springs. Ever.

I made the mistake of trying to remove a broken one after one of my friends assured me it clearly wasn't under tension anymore. I loosened one of the nuts just a bit and then watched as it shot 20 feet across the garage and embedded in the drywall. Had my head been in the way, I think it would have killed me.
 
YoungBuck95 said:
Our garage door doesn't seem to want to go down all the way. We don't really have the money to call a repair man to come fix it. When it gets around 4 inches or so to the ground, the belt seems to buckle. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

YoungBuck95 said:
I checked and there was nothing in the track. Also, it is a double spring. It will go all the way down, buckle and come up a few inches. I tried taking it off track & lowering it myself to no success.
Click to expand...

These are two somewhat different scenarios: the door not going all the way down at all, with the belt buckling; or the door going down, then coming back up a few inches before stopping.

If it never gets all the way down, it could be a bad or mis-set limit switch. It could also be that the device which releases the door so you can manually raise it (power outage, broken motor etc.) is actually driving out as the door hits the ground, and the springs are pulling the door up the few inches because the door closer isn't putting any downward pressure on the door. So check an make sure the traveler stays connected once the door is all the way down, or if it slips out of place.

Check and make sure the cables (and the drums and wheels they run on) that attach the springs to the door are aligned and look like they match on each side.
 
We are getting ready to re-do our kitchen. I think I'll keep a photo log to post in this thread.

We have finally decided on white Ikea cabinets and oyster pearl granite. I'm going to remove the old cabinets/countertops and install the new cabinets. It should be a fairly interesting process. Our existing cabinets have been in the house since 1987, so I am a bit worried about what the hardwood floors will look like underneath, but its such a small space that I'm not going to worry much about getting them refinished if necessary.
 
How much do ikea cabinets run? I fucking hate my kitchen cabinets.
 
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