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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

yeah, i'd probably try routing it out first, then cut the angle. though it's possible the sunglasses section was routed, then it was cut, then the dock was cut, because of the angles involved?
 
ImTheCaptain said:
yeah, i'd probably try routing it out first, then cut the angle. though it's possible the sunglasses section was routed, then it was cut, then the dock was cut, because of the angles involved?
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I'd think the angle cut was done last. Otherwise, you'd see some fine gouge marks from the routing unless a lathe was used. That or they sanded the heck out of it.
 
yeah, that's why i said the finish would probably be the trickiest part. i have hard time believing any cut would be that clean
 
51Aw-Eu%2BxeL._SX425_.jpg
 
That is an interesting piece. Slightly different in design from the one in the kickstarter link.

Looks like the sunglasses section was routed out, then the angle sliced, then the phone section routed, because the phone section bottom seems to be parallel with the slanted edge and the bottom of the sunglasses section is parallel with the flat bottom, uncut top.

I would practice on some cheap 2x8 (untreated) lumber first looks like about a 12 inch piece - 1/2 in each for the verticals, about 3-1/2 inches for the phone section and the rest for the glasses. Rout out the glasses frame, put the whole block on a bandsaw - need one with enough capacity to cut the 7-1/2 inch width of the board, cut to about a 15 degree angle, then rout the phone section.

As leebs said, lots of sanding to get it all smooth. But it may not be that much if you are careful with the routing process, and leave a nice smooth bottom. a small power sander with the triangular bottom to reach into the corners would be your friend.
 
Deaconblue said:
That is an interesting piece. Slightly different in design from the one in the kickstarter link.

Looks like the sunglasses section was routed out, then the angle sliced, then the phone section routed, because the phone section bottom seems to be parallel with the slanted edge and the bottom of the sunglasses section is parallel with the flat bottom, uncut top.

I would practice on some cheap 2x8 (untreated) lumber first looks like about a 12 inch piece - 1/2 in each for the verticals, about 3-1/2 inches for the phone section and the rest for the glasses. Rout out the glasses frame, put the whole block on a bandsaw - need one with enough capacity to cut the 7-1/2 inch width of the board, cut to about a 15 degree angle, then rout the phone section.

As leebs said, lots of sanding to get it all smooth. But it may not be that much if you are careful with the routing process, and leave a nice smooth bottom. a small power sander with the triangular bottom to reach into the corners would be your friend.
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but cheap 2x8 lumber is going to be some kind of soft wood (heh), which might be kind of frustrating to work with compared to a denser hardwood. i'd ask somewhere (unfinished furniture place?) if they've got any hardwood scraps.

...just a thought.
 
lbE08 said:
but cheap 2x8 lumber is going to be some kind of soft wood (heh), which might be kind of frustrating to work with compared to a denser hardwood. i'd ask somewhere (unfinished furniture place?) if they've got any hardwood scraps.

...just a thought.
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you're right about that.

I was thinking more in terms of working the router to get the big open area bottom pretty close to flat, then doing the angled resaw rip cut followed by routing at a 15 degree or so angle. Because I'm just guessing at the angle, may have to cut a few different angles to see what looks right. Rather do that on something cheap than a nice piece of Walnut or maple.

Also, that big of a space (glasses area) may be difficult for the router base to stay on top of something, as opposed to "floating" over already removed area.

I'd rather practice on cheap wood than expensive. Of course, if you have a source of free hardwood go for it.
 
ImTheCaptain said:
51Aw-Eu%2BxeL._SX425_.jpg
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These, in concert with a router might do the job quicker. Rout the perimeter, maybe cut the island into a few smaller islands, remove the islands with chisel and then shave the bottom as smooth as you can with the chisel before sanding.
 
I plan on getting a new front door soon. Is it worth it to pay Home Depot to install the door? Installation starts at $249, and the door doesn't even cost that much before knobs.
 
a note about doors: not sure what kind of sun your front door gets, but if you get a lot of sun, be aware that over the course of the summer your door will shrink/dry out/be affected by the sun (if you're looking at a solid wood door as opposed to a composite material).
 
lbE08 said:
a note about doors: not sure what kind of sun your front door gets, but if you get a lot of sun, be aware that over the course of the summer your door will shrink/dry out/be affected by the sun (if you're looking at a solid wood door as opposed to a composite material).
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the one I'm looking at is fiberglass and my house faces south
 
Anyone every painted the brick of their home? Trying to decide if this is a DIY project or one that I would need to hire a painter for.
 
I've not painted brick, but the civic club we just painted was cinder block. The mortar lines were a pain, but it's doable for a DIYer. Just expect the bricks to soak up a very large amount of primer.
 
WakeGal said:
Anyone every painted the brick of their home? Trying to decide if this is a DIY project or one that I would need to hire a painter for.
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The important part of painting brick, like painting anything else, is the prep work. The brick needs to be clean and dry before painting. Also make sure the mortar joints are tight before painting. If not, or if some is missing, caulk before painting to fill in the holes. If the mortar is sound, a power washer may help a lot in the prep. Make sure you get the efflorescence (white powdery stuff) off the surface. Latex primer, maybe two coats. Exterior latex paint. As noted above, unpainted brick will soak up a lot of paint.

As for DIY vs hire someone, it really depends on your appetite for work in doing proper prep, and the difficulty in reaching all of the surface you want to paint.
 
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