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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

RubbinsRacin said:
gonna replace some light fixtures. it is easy to put new ones on a dimmer? current lights regular switches
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yes it is easy BUT you have to be careful to buy a dimmer that is compatible with the light fixture/bulbs you are using. Many dimmers are not compatible with CFLS and LEDS, and when you're wandering the aisles in the big box hardware store the labeling is VERY confusing. I went through three dimmers before I got it right.
 
Deacon923 said:
yes it is easy BUT you have to be careful to buy a dimmer that is compatible with the light fixture/bulbs you are using. Many dimmers are not compatible with CFLS and LEDS, and when you're wandering the aisles in the big box hardware store the labeling is VERY confusing. I went through three dimmers before I got it right.
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this; even then LED fixtures will sometimes simply not work with dimmers (not work as in buzzing/flickering even at 'full power'). I had that experience myself and confirmed it with an electrician when redoing our bathroom.
 
The posts above are spot on with respect to electric lights and dimmers. Let me just emphasis that almost all CFL bulbs are NOT dimmer friendly.
The best kind of bulbs for dimmers are those you soon won't be allowed to have - the incandescent.
 
RubbinsRacin said:
so will dimmers go extinct?
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DistrictDeacon said:
Eventually people will switch to dimmable smart bulbs when they become cheaper.
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Dimmers won't go away. People like to be able to vary the light level in a room. Eventually the LED bulbs will get good enough so that there won't be the issue with the dimmers that sometimes exists with current LED bulbs.
 
Anybody know of any glue that will hold two pieces of sheet metal together? My kids have been badgering me to put a wakeboard tower on our boat, so I bought one online to install myself. It has four single-bolt anchor points around the hull. As both the installation instructions and common sense tells me, I need to reinforce the hull at the anchor points or the fiberglass will likely crack at the anchor points from the stress of pulling on the tower (actually I assume it will crack regardless, but would like the reinforcement so the bolts don't pull through).

I got a piece of 1/8" steel sheet metal and cut it into 6" x 8" rectangles (I "fabricated" the pieces for "the build" if I was on a DIY tv show) to glue to the inside of the hull after drilling the mounting holes. I cut 8 pieces, with the intention of doubling them up for a total 1/4" reinforcement. I'm okay gluing the inside piece to the hull, as I think some heavy duty Loctite will hold that bond okay, but anybody know of any glue that will hold the 2 pieces of sheet metal together? I have no welding equipment and have no desire to get any. Worst-case scenario I will just wrap duct tape all around them to hold them together, as once the bolt is through it will hold it in place, but I'd like to make the whole mounting point as strong as possible if there is a cheap commercial product available.
 
2&2 Slider To Leyritz said:
Anybody know of any glue that will hold two pieces of sheet metal together? My kids have been badgering me to put a wakeboard tower on our boat, so I bought one online to install myself. It has four single-bolt anchor points around the hull. As both the installation instructions and common sense tells me, I need to reinforce the hull at the anchor points or the fiberglass will likely crack at the anchor points from the stress of pulling on the tower (actually I assume it will crack regardless, but would like the reinforcement so the bolts don't pull through).

I got a piece of 1/8" steel sheet metal and cut it into 6" x 8" rectangles (I "fabricated" the pieces for "the build" if I was on a DIY tv show) to glue to the inside of the hull after drilling the mounting holes. I cut 8 pieces, with the intention of doubling them up for a total 1/4" reinforcement. I'm okay gluing the inside piece to the hull, as I think some heavy duty Loctite will hold that bond okay, but anybody know of any glue that will hold the 2 pieces of sheet metal together? I have no welding equipment and have no desire to get any. Worst-case scenario I will just wrap duct tape all around them to hold them together, as once the bolt is through it will hold it in place, but I'd like to make the whole mounting point as strong as possible if there is a cheap commercial product available.
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Its not designed for this particular application, but I've used Loctite Threadlocker Red to bond two pieces of metal together for marine applications. You have to use heat combined with hand tools in order to loosen bolts, so it should be sufficient for what you need.
 
DeacWatcher said:
What kind of dough are we talking about for a new home irrigation system?
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This is one of those "it depends" answers. And the biggest thing the answer depends on is how much area you need to cover with your system and how many zones you want to have. That said, $2,000 - $3,000 is as good as I can give you. That is like the 25 - 75 percentile of national costs.
 
Has anyone in the Winston area installed their own hardwoods? Any recs on where to get the flooring? Open to engineered vs real, too. Just need to start researching.
 
awakeandready said:
Has anyone in the Winston area installed their own hardwoods? Any recs on where to get the flooring? Open to engineered vs real, too. Just need to start researching.
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I installed my bamboo hardwoods. Started with a floor nailer, but ended up doing the rest with a finish nailer.

IMO, if you want to stay in the house a while, go with real hardwoods. If you may be selling in a few years, I'd suggest engineered.
 
edit: oops, wrong thread.
 
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2&2 Slider To Leyritz said:
Anybody know of any glue that will hold two pieces of sheet metal together? My kids have been badgering me to put a wakeboard tower on our boat, so I bought one online to install myself. It has four single-bolt anchor points around the hull. As both the installation instructions and common sense tells me, I need to reinforce the hull at the anchor points or the fiberglass will likely crack at the anchor points from the stress of pulling on the tower (actually I assume it will crack regardless, but would like the reinforcement so the bolts don't pull through).

I got a piece of 1/8" steel sheet metal and cut it into 6" x 8" rectangles (I "fabricated" the pieces for "the build" if I was on a DIY tv show) to glue to the inside of the hull after drilling the mounting holes. I cut 8 pieces, with the intention of doubling them up for a total 1/4" reinforcement. I'm okay gluing the inside piece to the hull, as I think some heavy duty Loctite will hold that bond okay, but anybody know of any glue that will hold the 2 pieces of sheet metal together? I have no welding equipment and have no desire to get any. Worst-case scenario I will just wrap duct tape all around them to hold them together, as once the bolt is through it will hold it in place, but I'd like to make the whole mounting point as strong as possible if there is a cheap commercial product available.
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You don't need to double up. 1/8" is plenty thick. You aren't really gaining strength by doubling them up, it's about spreading the load out over a wider area. Use 3M 5200 to bond plate to hull. I would use stainless plate and definitely stainless bolts.
 
PhysDeac said:
You don't need to double up. 1/8" is plenty thick. You aren't really gaining strength by doubling them up, it's about spreading the load out over a wider area. Use 3M 5200 to bond plate to hull. I would use stainless plate and definitely stainless bolts.
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So in the box for the tower were some 1/4" stainless backing plates (bolts were stainless as well), just not as long/wide as the one I was using. So I ended up stacking their plate on top of my plate and it seems pretty sturdy. Took most of the day Saturday to install the whole thing, but I got it in place. We tried it yesterday and it worked really well.

Before:
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After:
rhrcrk.jpg
 
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anyone with some electrical skills?

I'm trying to finally get my garage set up with a workbench. Currently, there are very few outlets in the garage, period. The previous owners ran a 220v line into the basement to install a dryer. That line is still in place but not used for anything but runs right above the spot where I'd like to put my bench and some other outlets/lights, etc. Can I just pigtail in a 12 gauge wire into the Black hot and neutral lines and leave the red hot line intact?
 
ImTheCaptain said:
anyone with some electrical skills?

I'm trying to finally get my garage set up with a workbench. Currently, there are very few outlets in the garage, period. The previous owners ran a 220v line into the basement to install a dryer. That line is still in place but not used for anything but runs right above the spot where I'd like to put my bench and some other outlets/lights, etc. Can I just pigtail in a 12 gauge wire into the Black hot and neutral lines and leave the red hot line intact?
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Is the dryer wire 10-2 or 10-3? Does it have a bare copper wire?
 
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