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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

DeacDiggler said:
This is what I have - just need more of the same - 3-4 of these.
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Here's my materials estimate for what I see, assuming it extends 8 ft to the left out of picture: the shelf material looks to me like MDF MDF is medium density fiberboard. I.e. sawdust glued together.

2x4x8 ft. 10 @ $3.50 = $35.00
4ft x 8 ft sheet 3/4 thick MDF =$35.00
Box constr screws 2 @. $10.00 = $20.00
Box lag bolts 1 @ 11.00 =$11.00
Total = $101.00.

I would use Oriented Strand Board (OSB) or actual plywood. Either would provide more structural strength. Slightly more expensive. $40/$50 sheet.
 
I live on the third (and top) floor of an old building and the pipes are frequently a challenge due to age. I get backups in my kitchen sink, which includes the drainage for the dishwasher.

The pitch of the PVC pipe from the sink trap to the wall goes up at a slight angle. Intuitively, that feels backwards and my sink problems may be due to poor plumbing under my sink and not the building’s pipes. It was set up this way maybe three years ago when I moved the location of the sink while installing new counters. I get backups maybe once a quarter. Sometimes, running the dishwasher will alleviate the backup problem, presumably due to the pump action from the wash cycle.

Any thoughts? Do I need to have someone out to reconfigure my under-sink plumbing?
 
You have probably diagnosed your problem. The drain line going uphill is not good. The line or the trap is filling with crud. How long is that run of pipe? What do you do when the dishwasher doesn't cure the problem?

Do you have a garbage disposal?
 
Pipe runs maybe 30" from trap to wall

when it doesn't clear the building will usually send a plumber to unclog it and their expense -- no plumber the building has sent has commented on the pipe angle, but a neighbor recently did

no garbage disposal -- not allowed due to old plumbing
 
another point of information: I was out of town for a month and came back and it was backing up before I put anything more than water down the drain
 
JuiceCrewAllStar said:
another point of information: I was out of town for a month and came back and it was backing up before I put anything more than water down the drain
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Sounds like stuff from other units was flowing into your pipe and taking advantage of the slope to flow into your piping.

Certainly sounds like the more permanent fix is to get the slope changed so water flows downhill from your sink to the wall.

Another option might be a backflow preventer (check valve) that at least would keep drain water from other units backing up into the pipe.
 
Been dealing with the aftermath of a leak in our bathroom for longer than I'd like. Finally have the tile guy here and he starts pointing out some shit our remediation/restoration company probably should have brought to my attention but didn't.

The biggest issue seems to be a cracked joist under the bathroom that has started to pull away from the girder (I think I got that right).

While he is our tile guy for this job he has done lots of different trades over the years and recommended scabbing in another 2x8 next to it. Basically just banging in a new board and nailing it to the existing one with some additional anchors. Said he could handle himself for $150-$200.

I'm inclined to take his recommendation and roll with it. Any advice?
 
If you like your tile guy...where are you?

I'm looking for a tile person in the W-S NC area.

No expertise regarding your question, but I'd wonder why the joist is pulling away and if it's an indication of a bigger problem that might need to be be addressed...??? Or maybe not???
 
I'm in Charlotte.

I haven't seen his final product yet, but he seemed to give a shit about what he was laying tile on which seemed like a good sign. That led to going in the crawlspace to look at the underside of the subfloor and seeing a few things that hadn't been brought to my attention before. Not directly related to this leak, so I guess the remediation folks didn't see or didn't care to tell me about.

I'll let you know the final verdict later this week when he wraps up. He moved to the area recently so may be up for a job in W-S depending on the scope, and where he is actually based out of.

There could certainly be a larger issue and probably need to have a foundation expert or GC come out and look. Just have been dealing with more immediate toilet and roof leaks. But, even if there is a larger issue the joist is clearly split and having someone reinforce it while they are here doing other work seemed like a good idea.

House stuff frustrates me because I am so ignorant of what needs to be done and what it should cost, and haven't found someone I feel comfortable working with consistently. Hence my post here to relative strangers on a message board where I lurk.
 
The price for putting in that 2 x 8 sounds a little high. 2 x 8 x 16 board is $20.00. Shorter ones cost less. Nails, hauling, end ties etc maybe another $20. So he's getting plenty for his labor. Unless your crawlspace is really tight, shouldn't take more than an hour to get the board in, nail it and add anchors at each end.
 
The Local 72 (or some other union) reminds me every half inning of Braves games that skilled labor isn't cheap and cheap labor isn't skilled.
 
Deaconblue said:
The price for putting in that 2 x 8 sounds a little high. 2 x 8 x 16 board is $20.00. Shorter ones cost less. Nails, hauling, end ties etc maybe another $20. So he's getting plenty for his labor. Unless your crawlspace is really tight, shouldn't take more than an hour to get the board in, nail it and add anchors at each end.
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For sure, he even seemed a little sheepish about quoting that saying it should only take 30 mins or so, but that it is a pain in the ass.

It's not something I'm prepared to do and not going to quote out something like that, so even on the high side it's reasonable to me. And happy to find someone that seems like they care about their work and hopefully knows what they are doing. Would be great if I found a guy that I can call on for other things that come up.

Really trying to figure out if there is a downside or this is totally the wrong thing to do.

Appreciate the feedback!
 
How many of you have taken the time to have your HVAC air ducts cleaned and can you tell a major difference?
 
DeacWatcher said:
How many of you have taken the time to have your HVAC air ducts cleaned and can you tell a major difference?
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Rarely is that necessary. Check your return air grilles. Look inside. Clean or dirty? That is the "dirty air" going to your filter. Check your air delivery grilles. They deliver the air you breath.

Most important thing is to change or clean your air filters regularly. Do that and save the cost of duct cleaning.

Caveats: if there is a specific reason. I had mine done after a fire next door (townhouse) smoked the house very heavily. New construction if there is reason to believe the workers left stuff in the ducts.
 
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