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Official Pit Home Improvement/DIY thread

Also, per the County:

Reappraisals are conducted to provide equity between properties and to maintain fairness. It is necessary to re-equalize values periodically to ensure that all property bears its fair share of the tax burden - no more, and no less.
 
HailToTheDeacons said:
This is more of a home question than an improvement one: our property tax was just reevaluated and went up ~7%. Naturally, I'll be paying more taxes but are there any benefits to this reevaluation?
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one fewer pothole on a street you never drive on
 
I just got reappraised too and my value went up like 20% from the value on my last property tax bill. I'm hoping that can translate into a better sale price someday, but also maybe I can get PMI removed now without paying for a new appraisal of my own. Need to check into that. Could make up for the higher taxes.
 
I want to get rid of the hot tub we never use- any recs for places that take these? I'm thinking about listing it onCL for free, but require the buyer have a professional take it out. I don't want some yahoo coming by and messing up the yard or deck trying to remove the thing.
 
awakeandready said:
I want to get rid of the hot tub we never use- any recs for places that take these? I'm thinking about listing it onCL for free, but require the buyer have a professional take it out. I don't want some yahoo coming by and messing up the yard or deck trying to remove the thing.
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#anecdote: i listed a hot tub on CL with the stipulation buyer has to do all the work and it went fine
 
Was it full working condition n stuff? Did you list for free or also asked for money?

Ours has been running all winter, but I tried to change the temp the other day and it didn't work, so that was kind of weird and makes me hesitant to say it's in full working condition. It may need a little love.
 
Biting the bullet and getting some clog proof gutters today. I'm sure in a few years we'll learn they're not quite clog proof but a gutter upgrade with some sort of debris shield is long overdue at this place.
 
awakeandready said:
Was it full working condition n stuff? Did you list for free or also asked for money?

Ours has been running all winter, but I tried to change the temp the other day and it didn't work, so that was kind of weird and makes me hesitant to say it's in full working condition. It may need a little love.
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It was used but in pretty good condition. I think he ended up getting like $1500?
 
Yeah those are the absolute worst for gutters. We have a lot of maple (helicopters), poplar (more helicopters), and pine (needles) which create a similar mesh of impenetrable leaf concrete
 
Anyone have experience with painting lines? We painted pinstripes on a basement wall, using painters' tape that supposedly would "lock out" bleeding. When we removed the tape, however, there are definitely a few areas where the paint bled past the lines. Are there any good touch-up tools that can remove the paint without messing up the lines (or the wall)?
 
My interior doors all have a shiny brass handle and hinges that i'd like to replace with nickel finish to match other fixtures in the home. is it as easy as swapping out the old hardware for the new or am i going to have issues using the old screw holes and are my doors going to be all wonky?
 
Looking for some outdoor spigot advice. I've got one that's leaking pretty badly, can't get the screw holding in the knob to budge, can't turn the packing nut even slightly. I'm going to spray it a bunch with some PB Blaster and let it soak for a couple days to try to get it loosened, hit it with some heat if that doesn't work. But if I can't get it apart, is my last option probably just call a plumber? Could I try to rig up something crazy to soak the hole spigot in CLR, or would that ultimately be bad for it anyway?

It also seems a little strange to me because even if I turn off the main shutoff to that spigot, it still drips, though a lot less, and if I leave it closed outside for a while then open it, I get what seems like a buildup of water draining. I REALLY hope the main shutoff for that spigot isn't also leaking, that thing is not well located for service.
 
bmoneydeac said:
My interior doors all have a shiny brass handle and hinges that i'd like to replace with nickel finish to match other fixtures in the home. is it as easy as swapping out the old hardware for the new or am i going to have issues using the old screw holes and are my doors going to be all wonky?
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you should be good - with a lot of newer knobs the hardware just feeds through through the middle of the hole and into the threaded spot on the other half of the knob, not into the door itself. there may be a little shorty screw to help the hardware stay in place on the door, but otherwise the screws more or less just make the two halves of the knob clamp onto your door.

...at least this is the case with every doorknob i've messed with.
 
spiffylubes said:
Looking for some outdoor spigot advice. I've got one that's leaking pretty badly, can't get the screw holding in the knob to budge, can't turn the packing nut even slightly. I'm going to spray it a bunch with some PB Blaster and let it soak for a couple days to try to get it loosened, hit it with some heat if that doesn't work. But if I can't get it apart, is my last option probably just call a plumber? Could I try to rig up something crazy to soak the hole spigot in CLR, or would that ultimately be bad for it anyway?

It also seems a little strange to me because even if I turn off the main shutoff to that spigot, it still drips, though a lot less, and if I leave it closed outside for a while then open it, I get what seems like a buildup of water draining. I REALLY hope the main shutoff for that spigot isn't also leaking, that thing is not well located for service.
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Your description of the leaking certainly sounds like the shutoff valve as well as the spigot itself are both leaking.

I'm a fan of Liquid Wrench for getting rusted or corroded things loose.

Do you have copper pipe going to it or ???
 
bmoneydeac said:
My interior doors all have a shiny brass handle and hinges that i'd like to replace with nickel finish to match other fixtures in the home. is it as easy as swapping out the old hardware for the new or am i going to have issues using the old screw holes and are my doors going to be all wonky?
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lbE08 said:
you should be good - with a lot of newer knobs the hardware just feeds through through the middle of the hole and into the threaded spot on the other half of the knob, not into the door itself. there may be a little shorty screw to help the hardware stay in place on the door, but otherwise the screws more or less just make the two halves of the knob clamp onto your door.

...at least this is the case with every doorknob i've messed with.
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+1 on the above advice.

Make sure the new knobs are for the same thickness door you have and also the backset - distance between the edge of the door and the center of the knob- is the same.

For the hinges, you may need to trim out a little if the old hinges have round corners and the new ones have square ones, or the new ones are a little bigger than the old ones. Make sure the new hinges fit, on both the edge of the door and on the door frame don't just stick them in. You may need to chisel out the space carefully.
 
Deaconblue said:
Your description of the leaking certainly sounds like the shutoff valve as well as the spigot itself are both leaking.

I'm a fan of Liquid Wrench for getting rusted or corroded things loose.

Do you have copper pipe going to it or ???
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Copper, unless they would be some other metal... But the shutoff is in the back of some cabinets, fairly low to the ground, just inside the house from the spigot. Though to be honest I've wanted new cabinets there for as long as we've owned the house...but with a 1mo old now, I kinda doubt my wife would go for that!
 
If you have metal, its most likely copper. Black iron and galvanized are rare in houses built since WWII. The other likely option was some type of plastic. With those you need to be wary of using the 'heat wrench'.
 
Deaconblue said:
If you have metal, its most likely copper. Black iron and galvanized are rare in houses built since WWII. The other likely option was some type of plastic. With those you need to be wary of using the 'heat wrench'.
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Yeah no, definitely copper. The shutoff seems to work fine if I really crank on it to close it. So at least I might not have to replace that.
 
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